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I'm trying to make a list of fun climbs to do over the next year in the Colorado Rockies. I'm looking for steep snow or glacier climbs, and technical rock or ice climbs between 5.0 and 5.10+/WI1 and WI4. There are so many to choose from and I run a small business as well as do a lot of work for two non profits so I don't have a lot of time to look through it all. I'm not expecting anyone to make my list for me, I'm just asking if you know of a couple of routes in that range that you've climbed that you found particularly enjoyable. Because of work I only have a few weekends to play and I'd like to get back to where I was 8 years ago when I stopped mountaineering. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rschap,

While it would certainly be far toward the easy end of the spectrum, the East Ridge of Mount Bancroft is a nice mixed (easy snow, easy rock) classic:

http://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge-direct/190161

An ascent of any one of Mount Neva's couloirs combined with a descent off the 4th class North Ridge would be fun - again, toward the lower end of your difficulty rating, but fun nonetheless:

http://www.summitpost.org/mount-neva/151695

Oh, and Navajo Peak via the Navajo Snow Field / North Face also comes to mind:

http://www.summitpost.org/north-face-vi ... eld/164888

Again, at the easy end, but a classic.

The south west ridge of Snowmass,is a great 4th and easy 5th if you stay on the ridge proper! CAPITAL PEAK!! Keiners route on Longs peak 5.3 very classic 1000' of snow and ice, then 1000' of rock work. One of the best mountaineering routes in Colorado. The wham ridge on Vestal peak, UBER CLASSIC 5.4/5.6.(San Juans) Coxcomb peak 5.6 classic!(San Juans) Elingwood arete, on Creastone needle 5.7. classic (Sangres) spearhead RMNP.5.6 (RMNP.) Casual route on longs peak 5.10 RMNP.) Just north of you in the Wind rivers, of Wyoming, is an endless supply of technical snow, and rock, on big peaks.. OH and the Tetons......!!!

Some classics that I have done:

I'm sure you already know of the Independence Monument. Great routes on that one, including a 5.9. Fisher Towers (Ancient Art, etc.) isn't far from Grand Junction. Also, Unaweap Canyon has good climbs.

If you want alpine, Devils Thumb in the Indian Peaks has lots of fun stuff.

Actually, there are good rock routes all over the Gores, Indian Peaks, Rocky Mtn National Park, Park Range, and Sangres.

Some classics that I haven't done yet:

Ellingwood Arete and Ormes Butrees.

If you want to practice ice climbing, No Thouroughare Canyon has Ice climbing in the colder months and is right on the edge of Grand Junction. Lots of stuff around Ouray (not only the ice park).

Glaciers are in short supply in Colorado, but there's the Fair Glacier, Skyscraper Glacier, etc.

Also, the Wind River Mountains have the closest "real" glaciers to you, but you need more than a two day weekend.

Sarah: Thanks for the input, all three of those routes look very interesting and fun. A route doesn’t have to be difficult to be fun and those are up my alley, I’ll definitely look into them. It’s not about the difficulty, as much as the training, besides, I don’t want to hike to the top on a groomed trail at this point in my life, maybe when I’m older. I do wish we could have started here, we might have had different first impressions and all. Thanks again for the input.

Pyerger: Great list! I had a couple of those on my radar already, I got snowed off of Elingwood Arête when I first moved here, but most of them are just what I’m looking for. Keiner’s Route is definitely on the list now thanks.

Scott: I’m kind of over desert sandstone for now. Aside from Unaweep that’s pretty much all we have out here and after 8 years of it I’m looking for something else, though you did make some good suggestions if I was looking for that. Devils Thumb looks awesome, definitely on the list now.
Local ice wasn’t very good this year. Nothing in the Monument came in but Snyder Falls in Unaweep did. We were hitting that once a week before work till it melted. I really want to get on some of the back country stuff in Ouray, maybe next winter.
I’ll have to look at Fair and Skyscraper glaciers, thanks.
Wind Rivers or on the list for next year for sure.

Thanks for the help guys!!! This gives me a great starting point. I’m looking forward to a great year in the mountains, it’s been too long. Thanks again.

If anyone has more routes to add I’d appreciate it.

the northeast ridge on the sharkstooth(5.6/5.7-5/6P) and the south face of the petit grepon(5.8-8P....one of the fifty classics) are climbs you should keep in mind.

jamie

Nice, looks like they can both be done in a day, both routes look great, thanks Jamie.

Just a second vote for sharkstooth. Really enjoyed it until the wind, cold, snow, etc. hit. Maybe have to back this summer.