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Stupid to try the Whitney Mountaineer's Route alone now?

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:48 am
by deungsan
For a variety of reasons, I seem to find myself climbing alone these days.

Been thinking about the Whitney Mountaineer's Route in a week or three...

I've been up the Main Trail several times (once up the chute because of the snow).

I have a four-season tent, -10 bag, snowshoes, an XGK, campons, ax, etc.

Am I stupid?

I guess my two biggest concerns are:

* Is there any avalanche danger?

* Are there any parts where a little ice on the rocks would make it suicidal without protection?

Thanks.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:05 am
by The Chief
I took these shots yesterday.

Had another small storm come through today.

What do you think.....

Image
Image

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 3:08 pm
by plume
Nice pics from Bama's Chief. Like contrast in granite, warm to cold.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:46 pm
by fatdad
Chief, the master of understatement. I'd say from the photos it looks pretty doable. Lots of folks do it in full on winter conditions. Weather permitting, got it a shot.

Re: Stupid to try the Whitney Mountaineer's Route alone now?

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:49 pm
by Misha
deungsan wrote:For a variety of reasons, I seem to find myself climbing alone these days.

Been thinking about the Whitney Mountaineer's Route in a week or three...

I've been up the Main Trail several times (once up the chute because of the snow).

I have a four-season tent, -10 bag, snowshoes, an XGK, campons, ax, etc.

Am I stupid?

I guess my two biggest concerns are:

* Is there any avalanche danger?

* Are there any parts where a little ice on the rocks would make it suicidal without protection?

Thanks.


Depending on your mountaineering experience, you may be OK going solo. However, avy conditions need to be carefully considered. This is a good winter route. But why solo? Being able to find partners is one of the strongest benefits of SP.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:38 pm
by climb4life
Check out this site for updated conditions. They also have a cool web cam.

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com

It's a good site for all things Whitney.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:17 pm
by jddeetz
Yo, I am in contact with another guy from SP right now and we plan to do a 3 day Whitney trip after Thanksgiving around the 27th.

People have died on this route before, its better to be in a group.

Email me at jddeetz@gmail.com for info.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:26 pm
by fatdad
Let me back up a little and ask whether you have much experience doing class 3, or class 3 in snowy/icy conditions. I think your experience level is going to be the biggest factor to consider. Given the season and the number of people who have gotten really banged up on that route, you might want to reconsider if you have any doubts.

Also, for the few solo trips I've made in the last few years, my wife has required me to bring a SAT (satellite) phone and check in periodically. While it initially seemed like a pain, it's really nice knowing that if something does happen, you have a way of letting people know where you're at. It'd be a long crawl out if you got hurt.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:37 pm
by The Chief
fatdad wrote:Chief, the master of understatement.


Hey, I just posted some recent pic's!

Made no comment on whether he should or shouldn't... just left it all up to him.

"What do you think..."

Don't put anything on me. I'm clean Fatdad!

BUT... and a big but.

Just spoke to some local's that went up Esha to ski/board this past Sunday. They were up to there chests the last 1000'. Esha is only at 12,500'. We just had another little storm that dropped 4" at 10K.

And lets not forget that this was the first big storm of the season. The snow hasn't really had enough time to consolidate.

SAT Phone really isn't req'd on the NF Trail all the way up to the Notch. Cell Phone works just fine with a solid 3-4 Bars if you have Verizon.Worked fine for me all Summer long. 12 trips to be exact. Only a couple of blind spots. But no where that is difficult.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:00 pm
by hikinedd
The Chief wrote:And lets not forget that this was the first big storm of the season. The snow hasn't really had enough time to consolidate.


Sounds like it's not out of the question to hope for good Thanksgiving consolidation.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:52 pm
by salad
here is a shot of the MR from this past weekend. not my photo...


http://www.flickr.com/photos/loriwilliamsadventures/4027923004/

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:58 pm
by The Chief
salad wrote:here is a shot of the MR from this past weekend. not my photo...


http://www.flickr.com/photos/loriwilliamsadventures/4027923004/


That is actually 2/3rds the way up the First Gully to the left AFTER the Notch above the MR Proper on the NF.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:03 pm
by SpiderSavage
The mountaineer's route is always dangerous. Rockfall is common. People usually die when they miss estimate their steps on the snowfield in the chute or above the notch. Icy snow seems to be the killer. I've been on the route twice in summer and both times had small rocks come whizzing down.

Solo being dangerous is up to you. I think people who miss out on adventure because they are afraid to solo are being stupid. That that is their choice.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:11 pm
by salad
chief - thanks for the clarification.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:16 am
by deungsan
Original poster here...

Thanks for all the info, advice and photos, everyone.

Just to clear up a couple of issues:

Someone asked why I'm thinking about going alone. Hectic schedule, mostly. High likelihood of last-minute changes, so it's hard to look for a partner.

Someone said its better to go in summer if you want to simply do the route and in winter to if you want to score a winter ascent. Makes sense. The reasons I'm looking at Oct./Nov. are road access and permit availability, mostly. Definitely not looking to claim a winter ascent when it's not even winter.

Thanks again.