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Jeez, nice pics from all.
Especially liked that Chouinard Falls, as well as the Spiral Staircase shot. Looks very nice.

From our last (2) mid-week visit....

Damn good shots, there, Chief. I don't even climb that kind of stuff, but. . . it makes me envious nonetheless. Good stuff!

If anyone finds a duct-tape gaiter in/below/around the canyon, please let me know. Thanks!

Dirk,
I knew that was familiar looking... just couldn't place it (the duct tape gaiter). I knew I had seen someone wearing that prior, and even knew I should know who it was. Alas, I didn't make the connection. However, my client had it, and I've gotta e-mail him anyway. I'll see if he still has it and try and connect you two. How was your weekend up there? Ice conditions have been great, eh?

Jed

JedSMG wrote:Dirk,
I knew that was familiar looking... just couldn't place it (the duct tape gaiter). I knew I had seen someone wearing that prior, and even knew I should know who it was. Alas, I didn't make the connection. However, my client had it, and I've gotta e-mail him anyway. I'll see if he still has it and try and connect you two. How was your weekend up there? Ice conditions have been great, eh?

Jed

Hey Jed,

thanks- I was afraid I'd have to custom fabricate another! I would appreciate it if you could let him know (my #51O.393.2651). I live in SF, but am sure I could make something work out if he/she (probably a he- I think I saw 1 woman in the canyon the whole weekend!) doesn't live around here. Ice was great, & it was great to get on it again. Little storm on Saturday made things more interesting (like blowing my gear away when I wasn't looking). Thanks for the response, & hope you have a great remaining ice season (guiding & climbing).

No dice Dirk. He says he left it at the hotel. I suppose you could call the Lakeview...

here is the result. thanks for all of your advice. [http://www.summitpost.org/image/598682//1st-time-on-ice.html]

climbing1 wrote:here is the result. thanks for all of your advice. [http://www.summitpost.org/image/598682//1st-time-on-ice.html]

Glad to hear ya'll had a good time.

My buddy and I were the ones doing all the work on the Main Wall/Sprial Staircase during both of the days you were on the Chouinard.

Newsflash: The B-H was climbed 2/23. I didn't see it, but I sure trust my source. I trust also that the ability of the reported climber is very very high. But it's still pretty exciting. It's only going to get fatter, for a little while anyway.

JedSMG wrote:Newsflash: The B-H was climbed 2/23. I didn't see it, but I sure trust my source. I trust also that the ability of the reported climber is very very high. But it's still pretty exciting. It's only going to get fatter, for a little while anyway.

We were tempted last week but the temps were way too warm and the water was definitely flowing under all the obvious ice on the B/H.

We figured that the temps would drop enough for it to be doable this week.

I am figuring that the obvious lines that were done were either "Freedom" or "The Great Race" as they were both showing the best adhersion and climbable ice, last week.

Oh well... good on em.

Hob Nails was in fact doable last Thursday. But again, with the temps in the 40's, we chose not to.

I imagine that the individual was Doug.

I will be out there the next three mid weeks.

Here it was last Thursday morning....



Any current pics of the B/H would be greatly appreciated...post em up!

Actually, it sounds like they did Hobnail Boots, according to this thread -

http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.ph ... id=1096628

I believe it's M5 / WI4 in good conditions. There's a nice 5.8 chimney to drytool through, as I recall (I followed a guide up it in 2006, one of the FA-ists).

The individual was indeed Doug. I know because I climbed with him today at the canyon. The approach was pretty beastly. We were the first group in the morning and we broke trail for the better part of 2 hours. Chest high snow in parts... (if you know Doug, ask him about falling in the creek ). The Bard was definitely in and he did climb it on the 23rd. I know he's also gonna be out there tomorrow, which would make his 3rd time in 4 days being there. The man is a machine. I'm trying to post photos of the Bard, but the internet is terrible here. I'll try again tomorrow.

Any and all beta regarding snow totals in Lee Vining or in the canyon, as well as approach conditions would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm considering coming down on Sunday, but it looks like a LOT of snow will be getting dumped on that area.

Anyone who knows the zone like the back of their hand have any advice? Chief, I'm looking at you and the other helpful locals.

Also, to all of the locals: Thank you for your information that you have given to those of us not fortunate enough to live on the eastside or near any of the other climbing areas. It is always appreciated.

It is going to shit itself this afternoon through Sunday morning with up 40" of new concrete expected here and up in the LVC area...

I seriously and very highly recommend everyone staying away as this weekend as it will be prime AVY snowfall conditions.

PS: Do not expect the road to be plowed any time before next Tuesday Morning either after this incoming storm!!!