SummitPost.org

rant warning!

what is up with the trollz in tuolumne taking 45 minutes at belay changeovers???? went to climb OZ on saturday (ya i know bad call to hit a classic on a weekend but we figured people would be competent, so much for making assumpitions) and watched 2 parties take 2 hours each to complete 1, yes O N E complete pitch. embarassing. getting bored after sitting and not wanting to see the mahem get worse we bailed and ran laps on do or fly and used binos to scope hotties at the river.

observations

nobody fell or hangdogged it, so climbing skills were all there...
but just because ur technical skill is sufficient, does that mean you should gumby up a classic climb because you sit around and climb single pitch climbs at that grade rather than LEARN how to climb bigger stuff with EFFICIENCY and SPEED???

belay changovers should take <5minutes. tops. wtf are u doing otherwise?????

all gaper crews had backpacks. BACKPACKS?!?! its a 4 pitch climb! even if u do hobbit book its still a short day...shouldnt u be simuling/soloing HB if u are floatin 10d? me thinks yes. if water/food are in the car u will climb faster, i betcha!

one guy spent a solid 30 minutes BUILDING a belay. ok if u are strung out on day 4 and finished an A4+ R/X pitch and ur belay is crap rurps, flared tipped out microcams all on choss rock, i understand. but in this case, a belay should take 5min MAX. plug, plug, plug, clove clove clove equalize off belay rope up on belay climb.

message to those getting in over their head:
before u hop on a classic HAVE YOUR S$%@# DIALED!!!!
if it takes ur crew longer than an hour per pitch total, you are in over ur head. now if u are workin thru 11+ R, take all the time u need. but on a classic moderate this is unacceptable. get dialed, have more fun, cruise climbs. plenty f training climbs to do this on. what is with people doin climbs without putting in the work needed to cruise em? missin the days when hard work went in to something before reaping rewards. i guess thats what happens when ur taught by old skool dudes who drag u up classic OW climbs and and tell u to get all skills at same level. V6 =/= 10a OW fyi hehehe

lesson
no more weekends in meadows until i climb hard enough to escape trollville. heart of stone was empty despite carloads of trollz on regroute/luckystreaks. bet scariest of them all went un climbed too!!!!!!!!!

Wow, you're kind of a dick. Why are these climbers trolls? And I wouldn't call a 10d something people should be quickly cruising if it is a challenge to their ability. Your basically saying "stay off any route that you can't cruise." How then, shall we progress in skill and ability with that kind of motto? I must admit the slow belay change over would be annoying but you never know what issues they might have been having up there with gear or fear.
And so what if they had back packs, maybe they are training for bigger things somewhere else.
I'd say YOU'RE the dork if you picked a popular route to climb on a weekend and expected everyone to just bow out of your way. Go BC where you will must likely have a wall to yourself.

i hear what the OP is saying. and i agree. and please, don't pick OZ to practice your bigger days with a pack training climb... unless its a lonely day... consideration goes both ways... 2 hours a pitch on OZ? those are the dudes that are selfish.

OZ is classic cruise and to hog it because you wanna test your limits is just plain selfish...

and don't even think i ever said being selfish is a bad thing either...,

Seems to me that if you get to the route first you have the right to take as long as you need to. Everyone has equal rights to give it a go and if you want to have it to yourself, just have to wake up bright and early.

epic is right. The first pitch of Oz is 5.9 and only has a short section at that grade. If that's a problem, you shouldn't be clogging up a fairly burly route with a couple of pitches of hard .10. You simply have no business being there. It's sad that discussions like this have to come up, but some folks just don't get it.

Maybe they're just having an "epic".

Climbing is not and has never been democratic!

hangdogged it

all gaper crews had backpacks

if u are floatin 10d?

strung out on day 4 and finished an A4+ R/X pitch and ur belay is crap rurps, flared tipped out microcams all on choss rock

plug, plug, plug, clove clove clove

I don't get it?? Are there really trolls there?

Yes, 5 minutes tops at belays. A little more if you fell or are "scared" and arguing over who must lead the next pitch. Inconsiderate, selfish, lame, etc. Prolly better to post on Supertopo though. This is more of a peak bagger forum, comparatively. No insults intended. Really.

WHO"S a peakbagger?!

Deb wrote:WHO"S a peakbagger?!

Aw, c'mon, Deb. Come to the dark side. We have cookies.

So get up earlier next time. Sounds to me like they took the time they needed to do it clean. And they got there first. You could have waited if it was that important to you. But bitching about is here is just lame.

P.S. Nice photo-shopped profile pic.

Tom Fralich wrote:P.S. Nice photo-shopped profile pic.

Thanks to Tom for calling out the Photo-shopped "Shreddin" pic. when I first saw the thumbnail I thought that something just doesn't look right. After reading Tom's reply, I opened the larger version of Epic's profile pic. Check it out for yourself. Notice there's no track behind the snowboard and he's in a pretty relaxed upright postion for being on avalanche debris in a 45 degree chute. Who's the troll calling trollz?

Next time call them "Tourons!" and tell them to ''Go back to the Deli or the Bay Area."

On the other hand MAYBE the easier pitch was led by a guy who is a weaker leader than one that will lead the 5.10pitches. I still have no idea why the hell does it take 2 hours to lead a pitch and make an anchor, even I do not take that long! I think people should consider others in line, and if there are people in line let the stronger leader climb the easier pitches too (just to be nice).