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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:17 pm
by paulteare
well dear chief
my record speaks for itself.
and im certainly not as cocky as thou. and i havent the the foggiest idea who the fuck you are.
anyone who calls hisself chief has got to be some kind of retired cop/ narc /detective/special ops /drill sargent etc.
i bring simple trip reports to st without the attitude...> why dont you go water your lawn desert boy.
cheers ps don julie is a bit more sustained than hobbs slate etc.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:54 pm
by Vitaliy M.
Since we got attention of one of climbers who climb in Tahoe....
Do you know what is the name of the line on the right (in Eagle Canyon)? I heard it doesn't usually form. Was more interesting/sustained than one on the left.

Image

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:02 am
by paulteare
that would be cutty sark right ,in eagle creek canyon
great mini pitch,only comes in here and there.
cheers

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:54 pm
by Vitaliy M.
Thank you Paul. I heard that climb on the left was Cutty Sark but I guess the one on the right would just be called the right variation. Thank you. Was a very cool climb, hope it forms this year again. And stays.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:19 am
by PellucidWombat
The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JdofI_V5nY[/youtube]

Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:40 pm
by kevin trieu
PellucidWombat wrote:
The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JdofI_V5nY[/youtube]

Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:


that's just bad form man. you are not using your feet at all.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:51 am
by aran
PellucidWombat wrote:
The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JdofI_V5nY[/youtube]

Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:


I see you used the camera angle to make it look a little steeper than it is, but I won't criticize!
Some tricky placements, but you pulled through it looks like- well played!

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:52 pm
by PellucidWombat
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W56y6U64HoE[/youtube]

Full Length Feature.

Or Trip Report on SuperTopo.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:33 pm
by mvs
My God. All I learned from this thread is that if I ever get down to the Sierra for those famous couloirs, I'm going to call it a snow hike and leave it at that. :p You can pin me down and waterboard me, I won't tell a number over 40 degrees. :D

Reporting from the alps, there is a funny thing over here where a famous climb called the Taschachferner Express is about climbing 3 north faces in a day. To do that, they've pretty much gotta be in step-kicking snow condition, which happens in May/June. Also the days are long. Some people toss in a 4th peak too, the Wildspitze. But I climbed the Wildspitze in April, and found this:

Image

Now this is 50 degree alpine ice. It was "highly engaging." Solid, hard blue stuff for 250 meters. (Cyrill's picks look fairly deep there, but there were lots of multiple swings to get a placement and lots of dinner plating). Seems like 50 degrees isn't a manly enough number for these Sierra couloirs. But if we are talking about hard, blue ice, it should provide plenty of adventure.

Hey Mark, you should have worn crampons in that hilarious video. :D

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:55 pm
by seano
PellucidWombat wrote:In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JdofI_V5nY[/youtube]

Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:

You should really rope up next time -- you're setting a dangerous example for people who see the video, then go out and try it unprepared.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:58 pm
by clmbr
PellucidWombat wrote:...I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).


Mark, in fact this is a good way in getting and/or staying in shape. :D

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:12 pm
by snowey
I love the way my thread has developed.

Looking forward to seeing Chief's response. He should be happy that he inspired a new line.

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:59 pm
by PellucidWombat
Never underestimate Chief Drift . . .

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:00 pm
by Rob
[quote="mvs"]

Image

Great picture! That looks crazy!!!

Re: North Peak Ice conditions

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:57 am
by colinr
snowey wrote:I love the way my thread has developed.

Looking forward to seeing Chief's response. He should be happy that he inspired a new line.


...reminds me of a song I used to sing at summer camp.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGGBb2cYkw4[/youtube]

THE ZULU WARRIOR
From the film "Rope Of Sand" (1949)
(Josef Marais)
Josef Marais & Miranda (Film Soundtrack) - 1949
The Brothers Four - 1960
Also recorded by: Mitch Miller & His Orch.

I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee
I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee

See him there (He's ev'rywhere), the Zulu warrior (He's ev'rywhere)
See him there (He's ev'rywhere), the Zulu chief, chief, chief
See him there (He doesn't care), the Zulu warrior (He doesn't care)
See him there (He doesn't care), the Zulu chief, chief, chief, chief

I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee
I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee