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I'm looking for an experienced partner to climb the mountain. Someone who can help a first timer with tips for training, gear and expenses. I'd like to make the climb on Shasta. I read the climb isn't a very difficult one, but then again, what do I know.

On a side note, I have a ham radio license and will be bringing simple electronic equipment for APRS and Packet work as there is a nearby repeater. Please take that into consideration.

If you live in the North Bay that is a plus.

Practice in Lassen and Tahoe this winter. You'll be good to go on Shasta next season in the spring.

Thank you for your advice! Lassen looks like a lot of fun. As does Freel Peak in Tahoe.

They are. If you are interested in car pooling on a weekend to Lassen this winter send me a PM in Jan-Mar. I'm game.

Hey that sounds great. And that is enough time to get together some gear.

I'm in Berkeley and up for climbing/hiking most weekends. Not exactly North Bay, but not far out of the way. I have a car and am willing to drive.

Santa Rosa here and hike Hood once or twice a week if you'd like to join me sometime. I have been up Shasta multiple times as well.

Here are some tips from my "failed" solo climb in early June in 2009 (got to the top of misery hill, saw the summit, and turned back due to AMS). Not sure what your skill level is so I will approach this kind assuming your an average hiker who has done a little research and lives near sea level.

I am assuming your planning on the avalanche gulch route...

Focus on endurance and fitness more than gear and snow skills. If you are a really strong hiker it can be done in one day but I don't recommend it. 11 miles round trip doesn't sound like much but Shasta sure as hell humbled me. Treat it like 15-20 miles. Make sure your boots have at least a 3/4 shank if you use strap on crampons on regular hiking or backpacking boots. My boots had no insulation, a few good socks, but good waterproofing and I was ok. Other wise plan on cold nights and warm days with a good chance of rain and snow even in the summer. Keep it light if backpacking on Shasta since it's a somewhat short yet unrelenting ascent. Sleep at the trail head or near the hut on the approach AT LEAST one night to adjust to altitude. Take short breaks, pace yourself and enjoy the scenery to avoid feeling like shit the whole time.

Basic crampon technique and self-arrest skills are a needed but it's a beginner grade climb. You can refine your skills when you get there. If your a clutz in regular life than walking with spikes on the bottom of your shoes may be challenging. A well balanced athletic person that has never seen snow can do this climb without winter skills starting out. Learn as you go. Your first camp could be in a spot where you can hike up a little bit and practice self arrest skills.

Start early when the snow is firm and keep your cool on the section above the camping area near the lake and below red rocks (10k to 12.5K ish). That is the only really steep part where you would have to self arrest and possibly below the summit.

The two big causes of people getting rescued (or worse) is glissading with crampons still on and rapid weather changes. If your above red rocks somewhere and it goes to white out conditions it would be easy to descend the wrong way onto a glacier or something and trap you up high on the mountain. So bring a map and compass. You can print the map of the summit area from red rocks and up and ignore the rest. Avalanche gulch is a bowl heading straight up to red rocks.

It is also possible to ski down from the summit to the car in the right snow conditions!

Good Luck

Gives you an idea of the angle

Steepest section below the red rocks

Drive in, sleep at TH (to adjust to altitude), hike in to camp in the morning, sleep there, leave just before sunrise (those 3am starts are not necessary at all), summit whenever you get there (most likely in 3-5 hours depending on your speed), descent and drive out.

Before committing to the drive check the forecast, and especially ask rangers about summit winds. If it is clear and wind is up to 40mph gusts or lower, you should be fine.

Good luck.

Day hike the bitch! Avi Gulch doesn't deserve an over-niter.

Deb wrote:Day hike the bitch! Avi Gulch doesn't deserve an over-niter.

Actually, I got to second that. I did a 25 hour car to car up Avi gulch last May with an overnight at Helen Lake. You know with the weight of gear for an overnight which includes the larger and heavier pack just to carry the gear one would move much fast without it. Actual time moving up (TH to Summit) was about 9.5 hours for us and that was with a heavy pack to Helen Lake. Drop that weight and no doubt I drop at least an hour or more off the accent time (respecting conditions).
I figure if I’m ever going to go up again, light & fast. Period. That mountain at least avi gulch would be more fun as an all day outing.

Bascuela wrote:

Deb wrote:Day hike the bitch! Avi Gulch doesn't deserve an over-niter.

Actually, I got to second that. I did a 25 hour car to car up Avi gulch last May with an overnight at Helen Lake. You know with the weight of gear for an overnight which includes the larger and heavier pack just to carry the gear one would move much fast without it. Actual time moving up (TH to Summit) was about 9.5 hours for us and that was with a heavy pack to Helen Lake. Drop that weight and no doubt I drop at least an hour or more off the accent time (respecting conditions).
I figure if I’m ever going to go up again, light & fast. Period. That mountain at least avi gulch would be more fun as an all day outing.

Yup, I third that. I went up in 4 hours 50 minutes to the summit from bunny flat (because I was too sick and did not want to camp half way up the mountain, had allergic asthma flare up).

I live about 40 miles from the TH and have been up three times, twice from AV gulch and once from the clear creek route on the east side. I'd go for a day hike.