SummitPost.org

Although I've only seen them in action once, I’ve read and heard many positive stories about the rangers of Mt. Shasta; a few are noted in this article:

http://www.redding.com/news/2012/jan/28/new-mt-shasta-lead-climbing-ranger-ready-for-of/

A sample:

On a search-and-rescue in 2000, two rangers were riding in a Blackhawk helicopter when it crashed into the west side of the mountain, tumbling over the steep slope before coming to a halt. Four crew members, a Fox 40 cameraman, and rangers Dan Towner and Matt Hill were able to emerge from the wreckage unhurt. Towner and Hill managed to get the five men down from 11,000 to 9,000 feet, where another Blackhawk landed to take them to safety. After getting the others on board, the two rangers decided they'd rather ski back down to Bunny Flat.
"We figured, rather than taking another helicopter ride that day, we'd take our chances with unstable snow," Towner remembered.

Same thing happened on Rainier to Ranger Chris Olson and guide Dave Hahn. Their helo crashed and rolled ejecting them. They got up, brushed themselves off and effected the rescue.

Helicopters scare me. The Shasta climbing rangers were nothing but helpful last year when I was there asking about beta and conditions. In some places rangers seem to automatically assume everyone is an idiot out on their first rodeo, but not so much on Shasta, even though that would be a safe assumption there.

Mount Shasta's rangers are a first rate group, and an outstanding example on how to interact with the public in a way that benefits everyone. Not just the rangers, but everyone who staffs the forest service office there. I wish rangers and staff in other national forests and parks would follow their lead.

I had very positive interactions with the Shasta Rangers as well. I would also like to point out the great job the Mt Rainier rangers do. The've had a very difficult season - a gunman killing one of their own, and three missing climber/hiker searches back to back in the worst weather of the entire season. Mike Gautier left huge shoes to be filled and his replacement, Stefan Lofgren, is doing a fine, fine job in the face of shrinking resources.

Shasta ranges and some guides there know me by name. Even some climbers remember me from previous visits. It always surprises me. This is another reason I love climbing Shasta. It gives a sense of belonging to her community.

Climbing rangers (regarding their duties) are very knowledgeable, helpful, and reliable. And not just Shasta rangers but also Adams, Baker, Hood, Rainer and other places I’ve encountered them.

So is my experience with pro guides.

Also there are many volunteer climbers that join rescues expecting nothing but helping those in danger.

Rescue missions in many cases are greatly riskier than planed trips; especially due to hazardous conditions they often take place in.

All these people deserve gratitude; however, rangers are always expected to be there in case someone gets in trouble or to prevent someone from getting in trouble.

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Some time ago I watched a documentary about a few people imprisoned on Denali after a small plane crash. All rescue efforts were abounded due to the severe weather conditions except one proceeded by volunteer climbers, so called Mountain Maniacs, who were able to rescue two unfortunate passengers.

I just got off the phone with one of the rangers at Shasta, asking about the current conditions. Fantastic help and didn't try to talk me into or out of anything... he seemed to be very straightforward on what the status was.

Great guys there.

Chad, what was the beta they shared ? I have been contemplating a quick run up there for a one day ascent. Flying into Weed on a Friday and climbing Saturday night. Scott

Apparently it's icy as hell. Hard snow, and no glissading possible. The ridges are pretty bare, and have a good bit of rock showing, at least on the lower half. North Gate trailhead is probably snowed in, wasn't a week ago. A good 4wd might make it, but they don't know and with the iciness I would plan on an additional three mile approach.

It sounded like the best route right now is Avalanche Gulch. The ridges on either side as I mentioned lack the normal buildup that makes them good this time of year. They may be ok higher up, as they hadn't been on them, but below 10000 feet sounds like they are rock.

Best bet may be Avalanche Gulch, or halfway up AG and then cut up either ridge. Not sure. Or could attempt from the north, but not for a daytrip.

I was wanting to go this weekend. Not sure now, but the weather is so great I may forgo alternatives and go anyway. If I was already there I'd definitely go.

Thanks Chad. I may run up there on Sunday and take a look.