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Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:32 pm
by dman
I have limited mountaineering experience but I do have rock climbing experience. I was looking for a good first mountaineering trip in the Sierra Nevada. I will be moving from Ohio to California in October and was interested in a hike late in the month of October or early November. Any information on the area would be great, including general weather around that time and what a good first trip could be. And if anyone was interested in joining me on the trip that would be great to.

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:36 am
by dman
Steve1215 thanks for the help. What kind of pro did you use for both the routes you are talking about? Any kind of prep before I go?

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:07 am
by Kahuna
If the weather holds and no snow, here are two 14ers that easily accessible yet challenging Class 2ish:

Mount Tyndall NW Ridge

White Mountain

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:37 am
by POLUKO
It depends on how far you want to hike and how high you want to go. It will be cold, especially at night, and it could also be sunny and comfortable during the day. Snow is a very real possibility. Temps change very fast out here so plan for both.

If you have never been to altitude maybe try something modest, such as Telescope Peak or a short one like Baden-Powell, and you will have an idea of what it feels like. They are at around 11k where O2 is noticeably scarce. They are also not in the Sierra but kinda close. Acclimating to altitude is key to enjoying the high peaks.

If you are driving from Ohio you could spend a night in Flagstaff and hike Mt Humphreys, which is 12,600. Highest peak in AZ and a good starting point as well.

Not only Whitney, but there are many 13ers around there and your options could be Mt Mallory or Lone Pine Peak. Mt Langley is easier than most other big peaks as well and is a 14er. Just expect long hikes mostly uphill and out of breath.

By most standards, these peaks are not really mountaineering though, depending on who you talk to, the route, and the conditions.

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:13 am
by Marmaduke
What about The Minarets? I haven't been there but based on what I've read, seems like a nice option. Many climbing routes in a small area ranging from class 3/4 to 5.2 to 5.6 and looks like a beautiful area.
http://www.summitpost.org/minarets/247994

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:23 pm
by TheGeneral
Late October or early November? The Needles, or Domelands. Despite what most folks think, there is winter in California.

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:51 pm
by mtndonkey
It will definitely depend on when the first big storm hits, but usually sometime by mid to late Oct there is a chance of getting a foot to several feet of snow. Also, what level of rock climbing experience do you have? A multi-pitch alpine route in the sierra can be a pretty brutal first trip if you are mostly experienced with crag climbing such as the Red River Gorge. A bit more info on your background would be helpful. Mt Goode out of South Lake is a nice 2/3 class dayhike, Thork Pk is another good entry level hike or has a few easier rock routes. If you are completely new to the Sierra and bigger mountains, you might just want to bag a few peaks before jumping on a rock climbing route to get a feel for how long things take and how the grade compares. A lot of people new to the Sierra are shocked by what is considered class 3 sometimes.

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:52 pm
by Palisades79
Where in California are you moving too ?

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:14 pm
by dman
Mtndonkey: Like you thought my climbing experience is primarily crag climbing at the Red. However, I have done treks like a three day winter trek in the grand canyon.

Palisides79: I will be moving to Santa Maria California.

3Deserts: I appreciate the feedback!

If snow does hit, would it still be possible to do a climb with snow shoes and crampons?

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:23 pm
by Kahuna
nellis wrote:Actually White Moutain is class 1 and not challenging.


Obviously you have not done WM in early November.

The prevailing SW 60-80mph sustained winds w/avg day time temp of 20-30deg F at that time of the year, most certainly make it a pretty challenging venture. Of course I know absolutely nothing of WM. I just live beneath it and see it every morning first thing outta my kitchen window.

I would certainly not recommend any individual that has absolutely zero Sierra "Alpine" experience, on any Class 4+ climb, solo, for their first CA climb. Please refer to the current SAR thread for my reason/s.


Per the OP:

.... a hike late in the month of October or early November

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:10 pm
by Kahuna
nellis wrote:So your recommendation for someone with rock climbing experience is to hike a road with 80 mph winds?

:roll:

Better than have them solo climb a "Norman Clyde" 4th Plus Class screed Sierra Alpine granite route in 60-80mph winds without any intro experience to the region. These prevailing late Fall SWerlies affect the entire Eastside Sierra region and are notorious for upwards of 140mph plus ridge top sustained winds that time of the year.

The late opening of Reds Meadow/Devils Postpile area (due to the clearing of 100's of blown down Jeffrey Pines from last early Nov's windstorm) is evidence of that prevailing weather scenario.

But then you already knew that......

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:10 pm
by Kahuna
nellis wrote:
A5RP wrote:Better than have them solo climb a "Norman Clyde" 4th Plus Class screed Sierra Alpine granite route in 60-80mph winds without any intro experience to the region.

True. Actually if unpredictable weather is a concern then something like Mount Conness, North Peak, or Whorl Mountain in Yosemite would be excellent options.


Sure would if you are in the mood to fight your solo way up any classic route on these peaks with a prevailing Fall time SW wind of 60-140 mph's on the ridge tops.


Weather not being the issue at all really. Rather the notorious Fall time SWerly winds that blow pretty constantly from late Oct through late Dec prior to and then directly after a cold frontal passage. A fact that unless you live here and deal with on a constant basis, understand.

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:49 pm
by Princess Buttercup
Hiya, dman!

So, for what kind of climbing are you looking? Are you looking to do routes or peaks or both? Are you just looking to get familiar with the Sierra? What sort of approach are you looking at?

Yes, the weather can be quite variable that time of year, but who knows?

Don't mean to pry, but I think if you gave us (me?) some more information about these sorts of things I might be able to suggest some fun.

Hell, in late November/early December you might be able to get in on some of this silliness (with proper safety equipment and considerations, of course):

http://youtu.be/00ZLEqJ_Aak

(Watch for the fish at around 5:30 or so...)

The shoulder season of Oct/Nov can be tricky, but I'm sure there will be something to do! :)

-L

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:53 pm
by dman
MooseTracks,

I would be interested in either peaks or routes. And I would say I am interested in getting familiar with the Sierra before I do anything to crazy initially. Get a feel for what I am getting myself into before I tackle a day hike of Tyndall or Williamson.

I hike a lot and climb. Like I said, I have never mountaineered because, well, I live in Ohio and the tallest point in Ohio is Campbell Hill which is only 1550 feet. I have done stuff like the Grand Canyon during the winter, but that is as close as I can get to something similar to the Sierra. My long term plan is to tackle all the 14ers in Cali. For the first few months I am there I would just like to get to know the Sierra. Maybe tackle a smaller peak, and get a feel for what this goal all entails.

Thanks for any help you can provide MooseTracks!

Re: Best First California Climb

PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:30 am
by dman
3Deserts,

I appreciate you informing me about the horrendous dishonor I have done to the state of California and I will never utter those horrible two syllables ever again. My apologies to all Californians. I hope that everyone is as welcoming as you have been!

Dman