SummitPost.org

Good day SPer's! Looking for beta on snow conditions for the snowfield in Royce-Merriam saddle. I'm about 80% sure this is where I will end up this coming weekend and I don't want to carry over 25lbs for 3 days... meaning no crampons or axe.
Please chime in if you have seen or been on this snowfield in the past 3 weeks.

Completely void of any snow!

Just got a verified report from a local crew that did the DNB last week.

EEEWww, probably the same with Royce/Feather Couloir?

Deb wrote:EEEWww, probably the same with Royce/Feather Couloir?

no that will have snow, or even ice. I would suggest bringing crampons/axe and going up to feather, traversing to Royce and Merriam if you are up for a talus hop from Royce. Two sub peaks there have great 4th class summit blocks too. Highly recommend those. 300ft or so for awesome block and view of the big peaks across/royce lakes.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

Deb wrote:EEEWww, probably the same with Royce/Feather Couloir?

no that will have snow, or even ice. I would suggest bringing crampons/axe and going up to feather, traversing to Royce and Merriam if you are up for a talus hop from Royce. Two sub peaks there have great 4th class summit blocks too. Highly recommend those. 300ft or so for awesome block and view of the big peaks across/royce lakes.

OH! Say it again! Royce/Feather Couloir has snow/ice?! Not FEATHER couloir, but the "baby" one - I will be solo. *trying to not get too excited just yet*

Deb,

To be honest I do not think there will be all that much snow or ice in the Feather/Royce gully/couloir.

If there is, it will be sparse to say the least and you can rap it via several rap anchors you will find on descender's/skiers left. The rap anchors were intact last year.

A5RP wrote:Deb,

To be honest I do not think there will be all that much snow or ice in the Feather/Royce gully/couloir.

If there is, it will be sparse to say the least and you can rap it via several rap anchors you will find on descender's/skiers left. The rap anchors were intact last year.

She is trying to carry less weight. I do not think she will bring a rope.

I guarantee that that baby slope will be full snow or ice in early morning.

I'll probably bring crampoons just in case, no rope....I'm no tough guy, I'd rather risk a solo downclimb that carry a heavyass rope.
Thanks for the info guyz.

Deb,

Just confirmed with one of the other "Services" that the Royce/Feather Col is quote "Very marginal with nothing close to normal snow and or ice conditons.". This being reported from one of their trip leaders from last week.

Let me know if this report is accurate when you get back so I can pass it on and write in the book next door.

Have fun and be safe.

PS: You should give us buzz and maybe come by for dinner. Michele would love to chat with you.

Good info.

Does anyone here have any information on the north ridge of Feather? I had been looking at that to do a full traverse of all three peaks, but can not find any information about it.

Alex, I believe this is what you are looking for: http://mountainproject.com/v/north-ridge/106003336

Great. Thanks Vitaily.

BTW, the skeeters are OUT at Pine Lake. yuk

So how was your trip?

fail It's been a bad week and my mind wasn't clearly on task at hand, so I got fouled up trying to find Royce Pass, ended up down-climbing the east face of Treasure and took a little tumble. Napped in the meadow then hobbled on out to hang with good friends. It was perfect weather though.