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Has anyone been up this recently? Looking for beta on the conditions, particuairly the condition of the bergshrund. Any info appreciated!

Didn't you post this thread bellow on Supertopo? Should have your answer if you checked back. But shrund is not opened and there is no consistent ice up there. Neve all the way. You can get 40 ft of semi ok ice if you climb to one side (at some point). Enjoy.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... ern-Sierra

How many threads are there on North Peak?! I climbed the far right couloir this past Saturday and found it to be a freaking blast. We lucky enough to catch the last ferry of the season, so it was 6.5 hrs CTC.
'Schrunds are barely mentionable; stay far right if you want the easy way up; far left will get you about 15' of 60 degree frozen snow. I wouldn't bother using screws in this neve.
We found hard ice far left and far right up the couloir, but very sparingly. Again, not worth using screws. Low angle enough to comfortably solo. Snow rides all the way to the notch! Then enjoy some 4th class scramble to summit if you stay way right of gendarme.
Have fun!

We just did the right couloir on North Peak (10-16-12). Conditions were pretty much what Deb reported. It was possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right, but we easily climbed directly up it. The first 2/3 of the couloir was neve, and the last 1/3 was mostly porous ice covered with a few inches of recent snow. It was my partner's first couloir climb, and she loved it.

We just did the right couloir on North Peak (10-16-12). Conditions were pretty much what Deb reported. It was possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right, but we easily climbed directly up it. The first 2/3 of the couloir was neve, and the last 1/3 was mostly porous ice covered with a few inches of recent snow. It was my partner's first couloir climb, and she loved it.

Did you bring the inclinometer? What was the exact angle given conditions?

Does anyone have any recent beta for North Peak Couloir? Is it protectable and does anyone know what it might look like late next week? Don't want to make the drive up and get nothing.

Thanks!

climberslacker wrote:Does anyone have any recent beta for North Peak Couloir? Is it protectable and does anyone know what it might look like late next week? Don't want to make the drive up and get nothing.

Thanks!

I did the right couloir yesterday, conditions were great in the morning. As previously stated, upper 1/3 had about 2" of snow on top but it was no trouble at all. Patches of ice on the left side. Not sure on pro, I wasn't really paying attention to that. I've got pictures but no clue how to post em. Give me an email if your interested. As on conditions next week: Depending on how far south the system early next week makes it, I wouldn't hold my breath. It all depends on the amount of snow coming in Monday.

Josh.b.hutch@ sbcglobal.net

The right coulior as of Oct 20th, 2012: great conditions, secure placement and easy to climb. The ending ice patch breaks easily though. Two people were soloing that day.

Does anybody have any beta on the approach to North Peak from Lundy Canyon? With 120/saddlebag road closed would this be a possibility? How about later in the year. Make a weekend out of it and hit the Lundy Canyon ice as well?

120 is open and has been since last Friday. Pretty sure Saddlebag is still accessible.

Fire4x4, if you go up to Lundy please post some conditions updates. I went out to Parker last year, and would love to check out Lundy as well!

3Deserts wrote:So approaches to NP and Conness are good right now?

Define "good right now?"

3Deserts wrote:Mainly, I'm thinking talus with lots of thin, wet snow on top and ankle breaking voids disguised by aforementioned snow. Tedious, tiring, leg breaky kind of stuff basically.

One will indeed find those conditions anywhere in the Sierra after 12-18" of fresh new Fall first of the season snow has fallen.

So the approach is shitty, but what is the route like?

Got skunked last week and we're trying again.

I am sure you will be one of the first people to find out what the route is like (after that storm).