SummitPost.org

SeanReedy wrote:Let's queue up some songs for those holed up in the snow with smartphones, as well as for those indoors hiding from the wind and rain. First, a somber tune; hopefully nobody will share the fate of Dan and the man this weekend:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ushuiTscrpk[/youtube]

How 'bout some blues for those stuck down in a crevasse, or for those just imagining where they could be right now.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHerTbjN_EI[/youtube]

clmbr wrote:

Steve1215 wrote:-

--an Alaskan trick for crossing crevasse fields solo...


what you do is you carry an 18ft lightweight aluminum ladder...strapped to your body.....wear it over yer head, resting on yer shoulders at the midpoint, perpendicular to yer belly button...


if you fall into a crevasse solo the sturdy ladder should span the crevasse and save you...now you just figure a way to clamber out


this is for real

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I think I heard about this long time ago. But practicability is an issue. When I started traversing glaciers solo I thought about some kind of protection but with passing time while my experience and confidence were growing the thoughts just faded out.

After my last crevasse experience, however, I may be wearing harness and have a couple of ice screws (and a picket for snow) easily accessible around my chest. That would have helped a lot in reducing the risk of falling deeper and lowering the stress while getting out the last time.

Let me get it straight, you fell into a crevasse while soloing a glacier? And now are asking about going up there during a record breaking storm?

alpinelady1 wrote:Let me get it straight, you fell into a crevasse while soloing a glacier? And now are asking about going up there during a record breaking storm?

I’m not sure which part is difficult to understand and which to imagine. People do all kind of crazy things having a great time, near life / death experiences, an adrenaline fueled adventures. That’s true some of them get hurt but “no pain no gain.” Is not that true?

Just think about the gratitude of such an experience and accomplishment. A record storm and you are alone on the top of the mountain seeing nothing around you but white void; feeling nothing but a brutal pressure from blowing winds all over your body and icy snow sharply like a needle poking your face; walking is too difficult even with two axes or ski poles, staying still is too dangerous, you may freeze to death, so you crawl desperately feet by feet reflecting on your decision if it was worth it. You start praying regardless if you are a believer. You don’t want to die but what choices you have at that point? Any rescue is out of question. You are alone high on the mountain in a type of a blizzard that not many in the whole world would be able to survive. And that feeling boost your energy and gives strength and you fight to stay alive, to be one of a few, to get down intact. And if you do, well there are no words to express your feeling and satisfaction.

Steve1215 wrote:. . .
yep, I see where you are headed with this sort of philosophy...survive a few epics on Shasta then start giving some thought to K2


best of luck to you

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Is it even possible to have an epic climb on Shasta? Do you really think so?

I did not refer anywhere to K2, you did. Why?

Steve1215 wrote:^^^^^^^^^^

you misunderstood me, climbr.


I think you are using Shasta as a sort of laboratory where you can somewhat safely test the limits of objective dangers, and see how your mind and body react to those situations...and adjust yourself to being exposed to those dangers...


and with that frame of mind you might have success on much more "serious" mountains, hence the K2 reference, if your mind and body become strong enough


and, yes, I think an "epic" is possible on Shasta (though I have never been there)


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Well said.

You need to use subtler, more life-like bait. This one's like fishing with a brick.

clmbr wrote:

Steve1215 wrote:. . .
yep, I see where you are headed with this sort of philosophy...survive a few epics on Shasta then start giving some thought to K2


best of luck to you

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Is it even possible to have an epic climb on Shasta? Do you really think so?

There's three trips reports here about just one of them!

Bob Burd wrote:You need to use subtler, more life-like bait. This one's like fishing with a brick.

As a matter of fact one of the lifeguard training techniques is swimming on the back while holding a brick above the head.

mrchad9 wrote:

clmbr wrote:. . .
Is it even possible to have an epic climb on Shasta? Do you really think so?

There's three trips reports here about just one of them!

Could you be more specific?

http://www.summitpost.org/against-all-h ... sta/626323
http://www.summitpost.org/why-tom-and-i ... imb/621952
http://www.summitpost.org/reflections-a ... sta/624046

There are also two albums...
http://www.summitpost.org/mt-shasta-nor ... 010/618721
http://www.summitpost.org/tom-bennett-m ... bum/612535

That guy is an epic generator though; that isn't the typical Shasta experience.

mrchad9 wrote:http://www.summitpost.org/against-all-hope-life-partnership-and-loss-on-mt-shasta/626323
http://www.summitpost.org/why-tom-and-i ... imb/621952
http://www.summitpost.org/reflections-a ... sta/624046

There are also two albums...
http://www.summitpost.org/mt-shasta-nor ... 010/618721
http://www.summitpost.org/tom-bennett-m ... bum/612535

That guy is an epic generator though; that isn't the typical Shasta experience.

"That guy is an epic generator..." Agree.

However, I would call this an unfortunate tragedy rather than an epic; OK, for one a tragedy and for another one an epic (because, despite of the experiences and conditions he was dealing with, he was still able to get out of the mountain, and most importantly, on his own). Perhaps the survivor was preconditioned by his previous events, or perhaps by the way his mind works in such situations.

All sort of High Altitude Sickness is very common on Mt Shasta just not at that magnitude and death usually takes climbers by a surprise even though it does not strike like a lightning. The chain of decisions before the realized symptoms and after sets the trajectory to the final outcome. Summit fever, ego and denial besides not understanding the symptoms and possible consequences are very crucial cofactors leading often to tragedy.

Fortunately that sickness is not a leading factor of death accidents in the US mountains (not sure about Alaska). However, it cannot be completely excluded as a factor leading to other accidents. Mental or physical discomforts prone a climber to making imperfect decisions and other mistakes.

The bottom line is, regardless of one’s point of view, it was an incredible mountaineering experience.

Any other stories some may not be aware of?

Steve1215 wrote:-
bait? I believe climbr is the real deal, not a tr-ll

my tr-ll detector has not gone off
.

I’m not a tr-ll you should know this already. I just posted the possible world record snowfall on Shasta prediction as 1) an unusual occurrence and 2) to warn some brave and unaware prospects-attempters to reconsider their plans. Chad was the one who turned it into sarcasm/fun and I just kept playing along. However, not all is sarcasm, but also sarcasm here has real information and learning potential, especially for those who cannot get it; it makes people thinking.

On the other hand, not much is going on right now, due to the weather conditions, so we are having some entertainment with occasional more serious reflections. If someone reads only a few last posts may get a completely different view of this thread, which is still OK and makes it more interesting.

I’m surprise that we are still on the right topic related to Shasta, weather condition, and potential drawbacks.