SummitPost.org

Doing the MR in early May, I saw some photos on flicker the EWO. My question is is this just an alternate route if the final class 3 climb is iced up? It seemed like a much longer way around.

The Mountaineers route is cooler than the standard route from what I understand. I haven't done the walk up route, but I have done the mountaineers during December. Yes there was ice at the top, but it was manageable. So bring an ice axe and crampons as well as a helmet. The route itself is not that steep and is glissadable in the gully, although many folks would caution against that.

I'd expect in May you'd have no problem descending the ascent route. I wouldn't worry about the route back.

A few years ago two solo climbers died on MR while descending the icy slope in two weeks apart. Sometimes something easy may kill too. So stay focused.

After ascending a grand 5.10 East Face route to the summit in a July ,I thought descending the MR was a gripping rock bowling alley . I guess any gully feels confining compared to a massive open face . Have a great climb !

If it's badly iced, stay far left against an obvious low rock wall and you'll be fine

I am assuming that you'll be approaching the MR from Iceberg Lake?

The north face might give you an alternate descent.

I have climbed the MR and skied down the north face. (I've also skied down the MR.) From the base of the north face, it's a short walk east up Whitney Creek to the Whitney-Russell pass above Iceberg Lake.

Beware, the descent is not a straight shot down, you've got to traverse across the top of some class 4-5 slabs to reach a chute that drops to Arctic Lake. This photos illustrates the terrain best (the route is in red):


http://www.summitpost.org/class-2-3-routes-on-the-north/44615/c-150227

^^^^^ that's true, but that face also gets wind slabs that linger; be careful if you choose that descent

Yeah, the N face can be sketchy and icy and avalanche prone, chose your poison wisely.

I always perfer to descend over known terrain.

Great photo ledge rat! I've never seen a pic of the side like that past the notch. Yeah the photo's I saw the guys went through the notch and traversed accross that 4-5 area you have circled in white not sure where exactly they went up.

Our plan is to climb up the final 300/400 at the notch. Were bringing a rope and will rappel down the same way. But its always good to have a back up plan or two.

Bump this junk ~
Recent (of course) beta on MR after the Notch? Ice? Rock? Whiffle balls?

Deb wrote:Bump this junk ~
Recent (of course) beta on MR after the Notch? Ice? Rock? Whiffle balls?

It's rock.

Two posts here:

mr-mt-whitney-biggest-mistake-t64667.html#p915125

mrchad9 wrote:

Deb wrote:Bump this junk ~
Recent (of course) beta on MR after the Notch? Ice? Rock? Whiffle balls?

It's rock.

Two posts here:

mr-mt-whitney-biggest-mistake-t64667.html#p915125

Oh ick! I wasn't interested, a friend; I'll tell her to go pick on some other peak.