Page 5 of 8

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 12:56 am
by Bob Burd
Day 4 - Keyhole Plateau
Keyhole Plateau is located between Mt Lamarck and Piute Pass, another unnamed 13er, but this one fairly easy. Most of the 20 participants made it to the summit and back before the afternoon thunderstorms are set to begin. There are several ways to approach Keyhole Plateau. Most folks hiked up to Piute Pass and approached from the NW. Three of us went up to Lower Lamarck Lake and then through Wonder Lakes to climb it from the east. This turned out to be the faster route (several miles shorter), but not by a whole lot. Another route goes to Upper Lamarck Lake and the to Sky High Lake to also climb it from the east. 6 or 7 of us used this latter route for descent since it had a nice sand/scree descent to Sky High Lake. Unfortunately between Sky High Lake and Upper Lamarck Lake is a mile-long boulder field that made it a poor choice.

Tomorrow we are heading to the Red Lake TH to climb another 13er (unofficially named Twin Peaks) near Mt. Prater. Weather is supposed to continue to be poor tomorrow. 5am start should help us get up and down before the worst of it.

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:46 am
by seano
Bob Burd wrote:then Sean and Eric went north towards Muir Pass to climb Black Giant and then follow it to Black Divide.

Tom G. did as well.

Also, given more information about my 5th metacarpal, peaks will probably not be bagged for a little while. Sorry, folks...

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:54 am
by Daria
So bummed I have to work the next 2 days (Tuesday, Wednesday.)

Going to miss you guys a lot!

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:12 am
by Daria
seano wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:then Sean and Eric went north towards Muir Pass to climb Black Giant and then follow it to Black Divide.

Tom G. did as well.

Also, given more information about my 5th metacarpal, peaks will probably not be bagged for a little while. Sorry, folks...


that's terrible! You can bum around at my place if you need a place to recover. There's the Keough hot springs you can soak in too, 10 min away.

What info did you get about your pinky?

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:52 am
by Vitaliy M.
seano wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:Sean might have dislocated or broken a finger in the effort. It wasn't looking too good when we saw it back at the TH.

Peak bagging will continue, but blogging will be limited.



Get well! Catching up on blogging is tiring :)

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:09 am
by Vitaliy M.
Bob Burd wrote:
3Deserts wrote:Hey, whoa, stop the presses: what the hell is THAT and why haven't I heard of it and why is there like zero information on this?


We wondered the same thing, but the register had half a dozen enties from from folks doing technical climbs. The most prominent appears to be: NE Ridge 5.8 II, FA Dingus Milktoast & Brutus of Wyde.


Were there any people who entered about climbing that face?

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:04 am
by artrock23
seano wrote:Also, given more information about my 5th metacarpal, peaks will probably not be bagged for a little while.


Did you break your 5th metacarpal?

I broke mine in '09 mountain biking, and was in a cast for 6 weeks. No fun, especially after the cast comes off and all the joints are stiff as hell.

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:42 pm
by seano
artrock23 wrote:Did you break your 5th metacarpal?

I broke mine in '09 mountain biking, and was in a cast for 6 weeks. No fun, especially after the cast comes off and all the joints are stiff as hell.

Yep. I'm in a splint rather than a cast, but it will still be 6 frustrating weeks.

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:50 pm
by orbitor
Bob,
We climbed University Peak by way of University Pass on Saturday, August 17. Since you all are planning on going this way on Day 8, I wanted to share a few observations/give heads-up. That pass is the most forsaken climb I have done so far. Steep and incredibly loose, especially the last 500' of slope. Between four people, spread out, we sent tons of rocks, sand, gravel down the east side. I almost got nailed when one above me released a medium sized rock which gathered speed and was going to make a direct hit. I leaned left at the last moment and it missed me by inches. Another guy below witnessed the whole thing and got so unnerved, he gave up on the summit attempt, dropped down into Center Basin and hiked out by way of Kearsarge Pass - an extra 13 miles and 3000' gain just so he wouldn't have to go back the same way. The rest of us descended via the pass after summiting. Now, going up is bad, but down is a total nightmare. Inevitably you will end up surfing on top of increasingly large and unstable piles of rocks. I slipped and fell a few times, finding myself riding on the pile like on an avalanche. It was terrifying.
Hope everyone in SC makes it through safely. There is no snow or ice on these slopes, just lots of dirt, rocks and dust. No more than 4 people should go up or down the slope at the same time. Distance between individuals should be at least 50 ft, particularly in a vertical direction. Good luck!
Mihai

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:04 pm
by seano
revolvingscimitar wrote:That pass is the most forsaken climb I have done so far.

:lol: Since I first experienced it, I have used the "University Pass Unit" as a measure for crappy scree. Armstrong Canyon is one of the few places I have measured as more than 1.0 UPU.

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:09 pm
by mrchad9
Ascending Thunder Pass, east of Thunder Mountain, is mightily unpleasant when snow free.

Descending University Pass is one of the most enjoyable bits of elevation losses I've experienced. Less than 15 minutes and you can practically boot ski 1000 feet down to the terrain below.

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:13 pm
by Ze
Was nice meeting a bunch of really crazy, but nice people. Did technically "easy" ascents of Matterhorn and Morgan / Twelve Flags the first 2 days. Had to pass on the 3rd day as I blew up my ankle on the 2nd day descent as a large slab gave out under me. Scrambling down the rest of the way on one good leg was interesting. Thanks to those who hung out me as I hobbled down from Francis Lake!

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:10 am
by Bob Burd
Day - Twin Peaks
This unofficially named 13er is located west of Mt. Prater, about two miles from the Sierra Crest. Though it had the same gain as Black Divide (9,100ft), it was several hours easier. Pat was the first to the pass north of Split in about 3.5hrs, Eric just behind her. Jonathan and I got there half an hour later, with others further behind. From the pass (actually the side of Split Mtn, not really the saddle with Prater), one drops 1,000ft to a delightful alpine lake in a beautiful setting before climbing 1,000ft up to Twin. Twin turned out to be surprisingly difficult going by the route up from the south that most of us tried. The granite was somewhere between solid rock and sand, meaning it would often decompose in your hands. Pat was on her way down while Jonathan and I were struggling a bit over our heads. She didn't stick around for fear of watching us kill ourselves. Luckily, we didn't. Made the summit in 6hrs, had a nice lunch atop and checked out an old Andy Smatko register. It had half a dozen entries in 50 years.

Others at our trailhead climbed other peaks: Tommey, Tom B, Michael G and Luke climbed Prater. Luke, Michael C and JD climbed Split. Eric traversed from Prater to Bolton Brown, then climbed Twin and still got back 15min before me. Ouch. No significant weather encountered today at the Red Lake Trail, but others at North Lake and elsewhere reported some rain. All good.

Tomorrow we're heading to Taboose Pass to climb Mt. Ickes, another 9,100-foot day. Should be another long one...

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:24 am
by WyomingSummits
Ze wrote:Was nice meeting a bunch of really crazy, but nice people. Did technically "easy" ascents of Matterhorn and Morgan / Twelve Flags the first 2 days. Had to pass on the 3rd day as I blew up my ankle on the 2nd day descent as a large slab gave out under me. Scrambling down the rest of the way on one good leg was interesting. Thanks to those who hung out me as I hobbled down from Francis Lake!

That sucks man. I do a lot of solo trips that are 20+ miles and the boulder fields freak me out for that very reason......you just never know when a boulder that looks solid will collapse and suck your leg into a hell hole. It's a long lonely slog out on one leg. Glad you had company! Not that they can help a lot, but it sure boosts morale! :)

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:46 am
by Vitaliy M.
Damn Bob, seems like you guys been doing a bunch of long days on this challenge...all the best to your bodies! Keep those machines going and get some good nutrition and rest!