Well I don’t suppose anyone is looking for a conditions update this time of year, so I guess this is somewhat more of a trip report…
Last Monday after waiting out the worst of the cold storms in Mount Shasta I decided to give December an attempt as part of my effort to climb Shasta in every calendar month of the year (December was the only month I hadn’t climbed it in yet). Spent a few excellent days relaxing in the warmth of Bubba Suess’ place. This… not the climbing… was the highlight of the trip.
Regardless, at 6:30 AM I began dragging my butt up the mountain. As you can see, the forecast on Monday did not look good. But this was no surprise, and it was far better than the previous few days. -38 deg wind chill!
Though I had wanted Green Butte, I selected Avalanche Gulch solely for the likelihood of being out of the wind for as long as possible. Nothing else was really a consideration.
And I originally wanted to start early, but determined it was better to hike in the dark in the warmer evening than for hours before sunrise. And if I had to turn back I at least wanted to see some of the mountain. I nearly did turn back within an hour, my hands had gotten too cold from lacing my boots up, I was tired, and it was just generally unpleasant. Still, I managed to push on until at least sunrise, and nearly turned back again before forcing myself to at least go to Helen Lake. I knew then I might be in too deep.
Myself a bit after sunrise. I was beginning to feel better, but wasn’t having a great time.
I then made it to Helen Lake, which was now a frozen pond. I felt ok until I got to 11,500 feet when I took a break and my hands again got too cold. Thought I was done but eventually managed to warm them back up and push on. It was becoming more of a physical challenge than a mental one at this point… which was probably good.
Looking down from 13200 or so at the Red Banks and Thumb Rock. I went left of The Heart, again not based on terrain conditions but solely to avoid as much wind as I could.
Then finally up Misery Hill and the view of the summit plateau. I had been wearing 8 layers since reaching 13,000 feet, and 4 layers on my hands. I knew if I needed to tie a shoelace or take a leak that would be it… no way I could do that in my mittens without taking them off, and if I had to remove them I might as well start heading back down.
The summit plateau was a solid ice sheet. No snow was blowing at all as it had already been removed from the mountain. Most of what was visible was remaining from last winter, with a bit of very windpacked snow from the last storm.
The sun began to set as I was on the summit, though I made it to Helen Lake before it got dark. The walk out was brutal… cold, dark, and frozen pebbles on the talus than only gave way once you depended on your weight being on it.
But it was a successful summit! Good to get this one in the bag, and a good challenge both physically and mentally. My thanks to Bubba Suess for this one… even though I was solo on the mountain I certainly wouldn’t have made it without his help.
Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:23 am
