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I'm going on my first-ever mountaineering trip to Mt Shasta in June. I know I need an upper and lower outer shell, but which ones? I bought a used Marmot with taped seems and pit zips, but it turned out not to be waterproof or breathable enough. I would love to get some used gear, but am out of town for the next REI sale before our trip. I need outer shells, gators, 0-degree bag?, waterproof mittens, and pants/shell that can survive glissading. Suggestions?

I've worn a marmot precip on many of my Shasta summits. On summit day it will be windy and cold, because you'll be getting a pre-dawn start. Wind protection is what is most important IMO. Underneath I usually wear a marmot driclime windshirt and a base layer. As the day warms up you can adjust as needed.

OR crocodiles are good gaiters. I personally like the Black Diamond mercury mitts.

I prefer wearing soft shell pants - the Mammut Champ's work for me, plus a base layer. You aren't going to be glissading unless the snow is soft anyway. If it's hard you will be downclimbing. I wouldn't bother wearing hard shell pants unless it's actually raining. I usually bring along a pair of marmot precip full-zip pants just in case, and they usually stay in my pack.

One thing that I consider mandatory for Shasta is a balaclava, preferably windstopper. See above about 'windy & cold'.

I would bring a 15 or 20 degree sleeping bag. Definitely bring a puffy jacket for mornings and evenings in camp, and for rest stops.

The thing about rain gear is that if it's raining you are not going to be climbing -- at least if you have any sense You will more than likely be packing up camp getting ready to descend.

Thanks! Do you recommend a thin polyester balaclava or a thick, fuzzy one?

I have an older one that has a Gore windstopper membrane. Google 'windstopper balaclava' for similar products. I don't see anything similar on rei.com right now, but maybe your local REI or ski shop or other outdoor store has something like this. The Fifth Season up in Mt. Shasta should also carry this type of stuff (in fact I think that's where I got mine ) It's probably a good idea to be able to try one on beforehand.

I wear a thin fleece or wool hat between the balaclava and my helmet. Even in the summer it can be pretty darn cold up there in the predawn darkness of summit day, and the wind can cut like a knife. I also bring a warmer hat for camp / sleeping.

A thin one may work if it's relatively calm and warm, or you may not need one at all. Last May I went up Green Butte Ridge during a high pressure ridge and it was so warm & still I didn't even wear a shell most of the way. But usually I do need it.

I climbed shasta in july 08 and did the whole climb in hardshells. By noon of summit day, we were all frying. I know youre going in June, but temps should still be pretty warm then. I would def wear softshell pants if permitted. I also brought a 0 degree bag but our night time temps were only around mid 40's. Bring a pair of liner gloves...you'll probably be climbing in those for a large portion of the day.

In terms of breathability, nothing beats hardshells that use eVent.

I'll be in the mountain in early June via the West Face. Great time and great place for your first mountain. The 5th Season can provide some great advice. They are very friendly, give them a call.

I'll be climbing avalanche gulch route end of June. My first mountaineering mountain as well - I've done Whitney a few times but that's just a stroll in the summer. I'm taking some hard shell clothing and a 15 degree bag. Some of the gear I'm taking is:

Montbell Peak Jacket (pit zips and breathable)
Marmot Precip pants (for glissading if we're lucky)
Black Diamond Soloist gloves (similar to mercury mitts suggested)
Mountain Hardwear power stretch balaclava
OR Crocodile gaiters
Sierra Designs Nitro 15 bag

There are quite a few breathable shells out there and you don't have to spend a fortune. The precip pants should work just fine as a hard shell. I've worn them in the rain and they were great.