Autoxfil wrote:Using the same systems as SH is a bad idea for people who value staying alive over pushing the limits of alpinism. He solos hard ice and rock on 7-8kM peaks - that doesn't make it a good idea. He recently broke a ton of bones and nearly died taking a roped fall. That's not a safety system I want.
You don't have to do the things Steve House does in order to find a doubled up half rope useful for alpine climbing.
Autoxfil wrote:Anyway, his skinny rope was a half, not a twin.
Yep. I would re-iterate again and again that using a single twin rope is probably not kosher. Doubles all the way.
Autoxfil wrote:A twin will catch a sliding fall just fine. But, the thin cord is extremely susceptible to damage. A good half is only very slightly heavier, and much tougher in abrasive environments.
Exactly.
Autoxfil wrote:In either case, trash the rope if it catches a real fall. Use Tiblocs on the pickets/screws to potect the leader from a slip by the second. Having the weaker climber lead is often a good idea as well - when simul climbing the mantra should be "the second must
not fall".
I do believe in simul-climbing when it makes sense, but I don't like the premise of even considering it with a strong/weak climber pair. When you do that, then you need to think of all this Tibloc technology (does that really work?), and anyway, even if the Tibloc worked and arrested a fall by the second I'd be surprised if the climbers got away without a visit to the hospital. Simul-climbing is for expert climbers who know each other very well...and are willing to die for their partner's mistake...and not blame them in the afterlife.
Autoxfil wrote:If weight is the issue, invest in dry-treatment. A 9 mm that repels water will be lighter than a soaking wet 8mm on that last pitch of the day.
Why not just have a dry treated 8 mm rope? I only buy dry treated ropes, whether singles or doubles.
Autoxfil wrote:I ended up with a short 9mm single. It's more versatile, more durable, and easier to jug out of a crevasse on. Gear Express offers odd-length ropes at good savings.
Hey that's a great point! Maybe 50 meter ropes will start falling into this "oddball" category and we'll get nice discounts
. But anyway, all this advice about using a single half rope for some climbs makes the most sense for people (like me) who already have half ropes, and want to do an alpine climb with some (but not too much) rock climbing.
Happy climbing!