Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:13 pm
the thought of Stone gives me sweaty palms and a stomach ache but damn, I'd love to go back (to scare the living shit out of myself again!!)
Climbing, hiking, mountaineering forum
http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/
https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/pro-for-slab-climbing-t53470-15.html
FortMental wrote:Hey TheChief.... your bottle of Zyprexa has rolled under your desk. Seems like you OD'd on the Viagra (again). You should really remember to take the correct pills before you post.
welle wrote:Just got back from Adirondacks as well.
nartreb wrote:rhyang - yes, I was thinking of Link Cams. If I understand the info at the link correctly, the problem is that the lobes are weak under torque (i.e., when the pull is not along the direction of the stem). That makes proper placement critical, and I agree beginners should stay away.
I still want a couple for myself. There's nothing worse than not having the right size cam when you need it. (Well, maybe finding a core shot in the rope at the same moment...)
rhyang wrote:nartreb wrote:There's a recently-introduced version that elongates down to an extremely narrow shape when open, giving you a much larger useful size range - why can't I remember what they're called?
Perhaps you are thinking OP Link Cam (not exactly recently-introduced though) -
http://www.omegapac.com/op_products_linkcams.html
I have a couple. They are known for breaking under load in some situations Not something a beginner should be using.
There aren't many cracks in the face to begin with, and in my experience, those that exist tend to open up towards the surface (width decreases with depth of crack).