SummitPost.org

Stboo wrote:So nice to have such numbers of posts! WOW .. really helpful to have some ideas of gear.

Lot of shopping those days... Hopefully rock season if at the end and ice will not be in for 2-3 months...

Can't wait to tryout gears on routes in our local crags in Quebec and New Hamp!

-StbOo-

as someone said ... use yr old stuff for alpine and bring a lot of passive gear ... ie nuts and tricams

as you will likely be bailing at some time or another eventually

Dingus Milktoast wrote:

WOW!

Gee Dingus, that definitely doesn't look like the "REAL THING" and appears that you too need to get rid of all that "CRAPPY STUFF".

I think that you need to get some "NEW STUFF" as well. Otherwise, you won't be a real Alpinist either!

But maybe, just maybe, the two of us have both learned from doing this Alpine BC deal too many times to remember over the decades, that our "CRAPPY STUFF" seems to work just fine.

Or, could it be that we just spend more time actually climbing than we do hauling all that shiney "NEW STUFF" around them hills.

CRAPPY STUFF!

Hey Chief, I think you might have missed the sarcasm in that post. He told you to ditch the crappy gear and get something REAL... like the folding ninja grappling hook in the link he posted.

Folding ninja grappling hooks are all the rage on the new VII 5.11 A4 M7 alpine lines.

Or you can free solo with gear like this guy.

I'm kind of with Alois and Chief on this one. Depending on the route, usually a single set of stoppers, one each cam up to about a #3 Friend, 8-10 slings, at least one draw for every screw. Never bothered with pins. I have them, just never needed them for alpine, but a couple blades or bugaboos wouldn't hurt if you're already lugging a pair of tools. If it's a longer rock route, like something on Temple Crag or Third Pillar, then I'll treat it like a long route in the Valley or Tahquitz and bring what I would there, just more slings.

BTW, watch out for dyneema slings. There have been some scary videos posted showing a relatively low breaking strength for static falls.

lots of discussions in here ... hehe like it !!

I'll get into it as soon as possible... When Mount Washington will get snow-ice covered!

I'll take a look at Dyneema slings! good to know

The more I practice alpine the more you guys seems to be quite right about getting fast n light... I'll try to do my best at it in a couple of months (bring less screws-draws.etc.)

I got the joke but just wanted to stay on track with the OP.

Dingus, Fatdad and Alois reiterated the old concept of less is best combined with speed.

But, we all need to learn as we go what is best for each of us.