SummitPost.org

Hi, I'm planning a 5 day/4 night climbing trip in Scotland this winter and need boot advice. I won't be on anything over grade 3 so I don't need a super technical boot, but if I have plans to do more technical trips in the future so I'm thinking a B3 boot is still the way to go. Since I'll be camping, a double boot seems to make sense so I can dry out the liners at night, but would they be overkill for Scottish winter temps? Are La Sportiva Baruntses (so expensive!) or Scarpa Omegas (stiff plastic!) the wrong boots for a trip that will have lots of flat trekking in between the gullies and ridges? Will I be regretting single boots like a Scarpa Mont Blanc on day three when my boots are blocks of ice that just won't thaw out from a night in my sleeping bag? I have big wide feet and a limited boot selection at the shops near me so this has been a confusing internet research project for far too long.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

From personal experience you'll be fine with a single B2 boot, however, I've never camped out in winter; I've only stayed in bothies, which have fires and the like. Go for B3 if you plan to get into more technical ice climbing in the future, I have a pair of Scarpa Cumbre's, which I find to be very good, however, I understand their not for everybody. Plastic, is probably overkill.

Have a good time!

Hi mate,
as above, a B2 boot will suffice. Most people seem to recommend Manta's which are a great boot.
I personally use Phantom Lites as I found that after a couple of seasons I was getting onto more technical routes that needed a more stiffer boot. Also, even with lower grade routes I find it more reassuring with the Lites on the rock.

Uusual score, stick a decent pair of gaiters on your boots, a lot of people use Berghaus Yeti's and they will help keep your boots dry. I have winter camped a few times using my Lites and a decent pair of gaiters with no problems.

There are a lot of people who still use plastics but a wee bit uncomfortable in my experience compared to a decent B2/B3 non plastic.

Most of all, have a great time!

FYI the temp over here in Scotland has been around the -12 mark for the last week (risen thankfully to just above 0 yesterday) and is forecast to drop to between -15 and -20 next week. Better make sure you've got your thermals as well as your boots.

Boydie,
was due to go home to Ft Bill last week, couldn't get anywhere near it from the M6!
Apparently down to minus 20 in Altnaharra last week, coldest in the UK.
Another cold snap next week then, looks like good conditions for the hills. Gutted we can't get up there as family stuff :0(

Aye the weather has been pretty rough. A lot of people in my work got stuck on the M8 for over 8 hours.

Conditions on the hills however are excellent. I went to Dumgoyne at the weekend, which is on the outskirts of Glasgow, and it was caked. Some years there hasn't even been a drop of snow there.

Altnahara might hit -25 next week.

A couple of avalanches in the Pentlands as well, mad!

A good article for the North West over on UKC:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3258

Will be heading to Ft Bill now in Feb for the usual Feb conditions which will hopefully happen. Fingers crossed it will be as good as it is at the moment, looking good.

Hey,
Thanks for all the input. I just took a winter climbing class this weekend and the short walk we took in double plastics convinced me that leathers are the way to go. I'm looking at Lowa Mountain Experts, Scarpa Mont Blancs or Charmoz, and because a shop I've found has them for $200, Vasque M Possible SS's. Can't find much info on the Vasque's, but if they fit it's a great price. Also considering using VBL sock liners.

Glad to hear you guys are getting more cold/snow than freezing rain. I'll take that any day!

Atholl de-Saint wrote:A good article for the North West over on UKC:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3258

That is a good article, with some cracking pictures.

apethought wrote:Glad to hear you guys are getting more cold/snow than freezing rain. I'll take that any day!

Yeah, I'm glad to take a break from the rain at any time of the year.