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Hi all,

Please excuse a "newb" asking a certainly well-worn question. I'm looking for something versatile, comfortable, and under $100 (preferably well under $100). I have extensive long-distance trail experience and have summited about 15 14'ers (a few of which were in winter) Gannett Peak, and some of the Northwest volcanoes, among others. I'm looking to get all of the 14'ers (I know, such a trite goal) in Colorado and CA. I'm also looking to get Hood (turned back once at Pearly Gates in late summer because of rockfall and vertical ice) and Rainier soon. I plan to learn how to rappel this spring when I move to Durango from Colorado Springs, having good access to canyon country. I want to rappel in order to have an "easy" time of descending class 4 routes on 14'ers. And obviously I want to be roped to someone on a climb like Rainier.

So which harness(es) would best suite my near future? And perhaps I wouldn't mind spending a little extra in order to have long-term versatility. I have more glaciated peaks on my mind for the more distant future. Thanks.

for everything you've said, get a black diamond alpine bod. You don't sound like you'll be spending much time in hanging belays, and you probably won't be catching any whippers. Ease of entry and lightness are your most critical concerns, the alpine bod is unbeatable in both of those categories. It is also just about the cheapeast harness you can buy. If you get into more technical rock climbing, it will serve its purpose for awhile, but you'll want to pick up something more comfortable for hanging in before too long. Either way, the Alpine Bod will still make a great harness for mountaineering.

The next step above the Alpine Bod is the Couloir, which I like better, it has a belay loop and weighs less. For a more comfortable harness the BD Momentum is comfortable and affordable. Though the Alpine Bod is on sale on Backcountry right now.

drpw wrote:The next step above the Alpine Bod is the Couloir, which I like better, it has a belay loop and weighs less. For a more comfortable harness the BD Momentum is comfortable and affordable.

The Alpine Bod and the Couloir are good, solid harnesses to nab if you like it simple, light and don't expect to be hanging much from them. Based on what you have said, the Momentum is a poor choice as it will retain water from snow/ice- thus weakening the harness and chilling you down unneccesarily, think cotton.

I have a Petzl Adjama and I have been very impressed with it so far. It is a bit pricier than the others but it sheds water, is very comfortable, is very light and compresses small- all the things I would like an ice/glacier harness to do.

CAMP AIR $49-68.00. Very light (8ozs), versatile, comfy for all long hanging belays and will take short to medium falls like the rest of em. Got one and use it for all my Summer Alpine gigs:

Some fine choices posted!

I personally have a BD Momentum DS. Its comfortable and durable. I go it mainly for sport climbing on a local crag but works for everything. For vertical climbing on rock and ice and rappelling its good to have a comfortable harness. For Snow and Glacial travel on flat to steep slopes you are not going to be hanging from your harness a lot, or at all unless its an emergency so the BD Couloir would be my choice since you want something light and compact. The Petzl Adjama and CAMP Air are fine choices for the ocasional vertical climb and as a main snow/glacial travel.

The Chief wrote:CAMP AIR $49-68.00. Very light (8ozs), versatile, comfy for all long hanging belays and will take short to medium falls like the rest of em. Got one and use it for all my Summer Alpine gigs:

How do you expect to put that on over boots and crampons?

Some good recommendations here, it appears. I have class most of the day but will be sure to check these out when I have a spare hour or two. Thanks!

drpw wrote:The next step above the Alpine Bod is the Couloir, which I like better, it has a belay loop and weighs less. For a more comfortable harness the BD Momentum is comfortable and affordable. Though the Alpine Bod is on sale on Backcountry right now.

The Coulior is a phenomenal harness. Best general mountaineering harness on the market by a decent margin, and cheap, too. It's exactly what you want for slightly technical use.

The Alpine Bod is outdated, the Coulior is better in every way.

The other harnesses mentioned are all for steep technical climbing, catching leader falls and lots of rapelling. Since you have no plans for any of that, I'd skip them.

DanTheMan wrote:

The Chief wrote:CAMP AIR $49-68.00. Very light (8ozs), versatile, comfy for all long hanging belays and will take short to medium falls like the rest of em. Got one and use it for all my Summer Alpine gigs:

How do you expect to put that on over boots and crampons?

Ah, the same way ya do any other harness. Put one foot through each leg loop at a time. Easy. Do it all the time.

BTW, ALL BD Harness's are now made in CHINA!

Another vote for the C.A.M.P. Air. Very light, comfortable, and takes very little space in the pack.

Any harness you buy MUST have buckles on the leg loops. You can't easily pass non-adjustable leg loops over your crampons. You can do it if you have a nice flat ledge to sit down, but on any slippery/steep terrain, you'll probably snag a crampon point, trip, and fall to your death while trying to put on your harness.

Thanks. I'm waiting until my dividend from REI comes in. This is my first year with an REI dividend, what kind of monster am I becoming?

brokesomeribs wrote:Any harness you buy MUST have buckles on the leg loops. You can't easily pass non-adjustable leg loops over your crampons. You can do it if you have a nice flat ledge to sit down, but on any slippery/steep terrain, you'll probably snag a crampon point, trip, and fall to your death while trying to put on your harness.

Personal preference actually. I always put my harness on BEFORE my pons and take my pons off BEFORE taking my harness off. Have done so for over three decades of climbing with pons. It allows me to tie in first and to stay tied in after I am done for the day if need be. Expanding and fiddling with ones leg-loops with bulky gloves etc is just one more thing that can go wrong and one can forget to redo. KISS!

Besides, I do it all the time as I use this harness as my winter Ice Harness and have done so (never unclipped my leg loops from my swami while putting on over or taking it off over my pons) for over over 30+ years. Ya just gotta slow down and do it right.

Probably a dumb question, but what are the major differences between a summer and winter harness?
Durability, fit,??