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Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 1:45 am
by Trevers89
I've already posted this question here but I need a quick answer so apologies for the double post.

Essentially I may be heading to Snowdonia next weekend for my first taste of winter mountaineering. My complete ignorance of gear and technique came through when I was discussing this with people at my climbing club- they asked what type of crampons I was going to take. Obviously I answered that I don't know and they explained that there are two grades of crampon, C1's and C2's which are more heavy duty, and that while C1's should attach to any boot, C2's are designed to go with proper mountaineering boots.

I have a pair of Scarpa Infinity GTX's which have been great for long distance trekking, hill-walking and scrambling so far, but which aren't designed for snow and ice. To do routes such as the Snowdon Horseshoe (which I've already done in damp conditions), what type of crampons would I need, and might there be problems with compatability with my boots? I can't afford the expense of buying mountaineering boots right now so if this is problematic I'll probably have to pull out for now. If anyone could explain the crampon classes and how they're matched with boots it would be much appreciated!

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:17 am
by Baarb
Well, there are C3 crampons too, but you probably won't be ice-climbing so not to worry about that. There are various good explanatory articles on the Internet regarding boots vs. crampons, e.g. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1330 (scroll down to Compatibility). Those boots have a B0 rating (shown on website), which may indicate that they're too flexible to be using with any crampons. I've seen crampons break in half because of boots flexing (though that was a 50 degree slope). Crib Goch is probably going to have your feet in all sorts of positions so that's something to consider. With those boots I would avoid crampons that are designed to clip in as the soles of the boots will just tear off (I've seen that happen too). Something with straps might work, or ones with a more rigid plastic wrap-arounds on the toe and heel. I imagine you'll be wanting an ice-axe and helmet as well. Whether it's a good idea to be doing that as your first winter route or not, well time will tell, just don't go unprepared or fall through a cornice http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-nort ... s-16235480. Perhaps you can rent stuff from your climbing club? Or borrow from other members. There might be rental places in Wales too. I don't know if Plas y Brenin lends out anything (it's an outdoor activity place nearby). That's just my 2 cents, I'd email Nanuls (http://www.summitpost.org/users/nanuls/36805), he has a lot of experience in the area. Hopefully other SPers will weigh in on this, I'm really no expert. Good luck!

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:04 pm
by Trevers89
Thanks. I've checked out several guides and they all suggest my boots are unsuitable. I've emailed Plas y Brenin and also a rental place in Llanfairpwllgwyngyll (don't ask me how to pronounce that!) However it looks like I may just have to put it off for a while until I can afford to buy my own pair of boots/crampons (and I don't drive yet so the whole thing is a bit of a logistics nightmare!)

I read about that, it's tragic news. I would be going with an experienced SP member who could lend me an axe. I think it's often better to learn by thrusting oneself out there and using some guidance and common sense than paying a lot of money for a training course, but it may be better to sit tight for the winter

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:05 pm
by Baarb
Trevers89 wrote:I think it's often better to learn by thrusting oneself out there and using some guidance and common sense than paying a lot of money for a training course, but it may be better to sit tight for the winter


I can agree with that though it's good to know what you don't know. Perhaps there'll be some opportunities to experiment with the basics on something nearer to where you live, even if it's a simple snow covered hill. If not you'll still be able to do the research and planning so that when the opportunity does arise again for an interesting trip you'll be all ready to go.

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:54 pm
by Trevers89
The Glyderau sounds fun! I'm guessing an approach from Ogwen Valley via Bristly Ridge is too serious for a first winter walk?

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:31 pm
by jallred22
Go all out. It wont take long before you want to learn how to ice climb. Get a full shank boot. If I could do all over again. Sportiva Nepal Evos. Waterproof, double boot, full shank, all around boot.

Grivel for crampons all the way. Get a set for glacier travel and one for ice climbing. G12s and Monos or Duel (find out what you like they do make a difference) Get a wire bale to go with Nepals and New Mattic is ohh so nice.

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:11 am
by MoapaPk
Trevers89 wrote: To do routes such as the Snowdon Horseshoe (which I've already done in damp conditions), what type of crampons would I need, and might there be problems with compatability with my boots?


I have to believe there are mountaineering groups in Great Britain that could much better answer your question. On SP, you will get a lot of folks who want you to buy top-notch gear for climbing ice waterfalls.

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:01 pm
by Trevers89
Did you get my email? What are the conditions like out there?

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:07 pm
by MoapaPk
sjarelkwint wrote:Moapk seriously, i am the one giving trevor the most adivice, do you read me me posting something about buying top notch gear?.
d

I don't mean you.

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:26 pm
by Trevers89
sjarelkwint wrote:
Trevers89 wrote:Did you get my email? What are the conditions like out there?

Since you have been here before :-)

Snow starts where the PYG track and the miners come together ...

Will give you a proper email tomorrow, didn't leave yesterday and still in belgium :lol: drank too much yesterday to drive a car to the uk :-p


Good show :lol:

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:47 pm
by Trevers89
I'm a UK 10.5, but I can ring the place in Anglesey tomorrow, I was busy today.

How long are you in Wales for, if you're around into the first weekend of January I might wait till then to see if the weather improves. I'm mostly interested in getting some winter snow/ice experience than scrambling right now, but I'll see how things pan out, Grade III would be fun!

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 3:49 pm
by Trevers89
British weather :lol:

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:02 pm
by Trevers89
Sounds like the best way to spend Christmas!

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:20 pm
by Trevers89
Shame, we had great snow last year! With any luck the cold weather will return in a few days

Re: Boots and crampons for a beginner?

PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:29 am
by Trevers89
Have a good Christmas man! I think I might come join you anyway regardless of the weather