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My partner and I used La Sportiva Nepal Evo and Zamberlan Expert Pro GTX boots (respectively) on the mountaineer's route in March and had no problems with our feet. Both of these boots are insulated and semi-rigid leather boots and only good in the snow and cold, so they may not provide the versatility you're looking for. Also check out the La Sportiva Trango and Glacier models. The Glacier is popular with forestry and wildland firefighting folks.

Trailboss88 wrote:My partner and I used La Sportiva Nepal Evo and Zamberlan Expert Pro GTX boots (respectively) on the mountaineer's route in March and had no problems with our feet. Both of these boots are insulated and semi-rigid leather boots and only good in the snow and cold, so they may not provide the versatility you're looking for. Also check out the La Sportiva Trango and Glacier models. The Glacier is popular with forestry and wildland firefighting folks.

Thanks for the response, I did look into the Nepal but its way more than I want to spend. The Glaciers are not insulated and they delaminate in extreme heat unlike the Scarpa Fuegos or Liskamms. I think I'm set on double plastics because of their warmth and durability. I have a great pair of bomb proof summer gortex boots from Wellco that are pretty light. I can get a set of Scarpa or Koflach doubles brand new for under $250. I can hardly find a set of used leather singles for that.

Tinman27 wrote:

Trailboss88 wrote:My partner and I used La Sportiva Nepal Evo and Zamberlan Expert Pro GTX boots (respectively) on the mountaineer's route in March and had no problems with our feet. Both of these boots are insulated and semi-rigid leather boots and only good in the snow and cold, so they may not provide the versatility you're looking for. Also check out the La Sportiva Trango and Glacier models. The Glacier is popular with forestry and wildland firefighting folks.

Thanks for the response, I did look into the Nepal but its way more than I want to spend. The Glaciers are not insulated and they delaminate in extreme heat unlike the Scarpa Fuegos or Liskamms. I think I'm set on double plastics because of their warmth and durability. I have a great pair of bomb proof summer gortex boots from Wellco that are pretty light. I can get a set of Scarpa or Koflach doubles brand new for under $250. I can hardly find a set of used leather singles for that.

There's a reason plastics are cheap. Spend the extra money now or tear up your feet and spend more money later.

Here are some Trango EVO's for a little more than your considering on plastics. And lets be real, if you're serious about climbing you'll get far more use out of a set of Trango's living in California than you will from a pair of plastics.

http://www.amazon.com/Sportiva-Trango-E ... B000KGH64M

Also, I've climbed the Mountaineer's Route on Whitney in the winter. You don't need plastics, it's two nights (tops) if the road is closed otherwise just one night at Iceberg Lake.

What did you decide on Tinman?

I agree with the above, Plastics will be rarely used. I think you would be much better off with either the La Sportiva Trango, Scarpa Mont Blanc, Lowa Mountain Expert, Lowa Weisshorn etc. Something like this type of boot.

They seem much more versatile as well if you start getting into more mountaineering and any of the other incredible climbs in the Sierras such as the North Palisade and any of it's adjoining peaks.

+1 to the last two comments on sticking with insulated leathers. I've spent a lot of time on Whitney and have only once worn plastics and frankly that was only to add weight as a training climb. At the risk of over-simplifying, it's not the PNW and only in very wet, early spring conditions would I even consider plastics on Whitney. IMO.

Absolutely zero need for a Plastic Boot on Whitney in Winter. The two Scarpa models you indicated in your OP should be fine with the addition of a good below knee OR Croc Gaiter as posted. Add a VBL System or a 1-2mm Neoprene sock, and your feet will be toasty, regardless the temps.

One additional note, as an Active Duty "Operating" Marine, you are afforded a Military Professional Purchase accessibility through this program: Promotive

You may find some very nice deals on an array of different boots available to Professional Military Operators that will most certainly fit your needs for this particular endeavor.