Backpacking vs Mountaineering Boots for Whitney
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 6:50 am
How important is it to have a true "Mountaineering" boot for the Mt. Whitney Mountaineer's Route in winter? I realize there have been some related discussions on this board, and I don't mean to be redundant, but it's still not clear to me.
I have Asolo Fugitive GTX boots that I'm considering using, but would shell-out for proper boots if these are completely inappropriate or unsafe. At this time though, I don't intend to do any mountaineering outside the California Sierras, or any technical winter climbing.
Three main-issues (as I understand them):
A)Crampon Compatibility
The crampons I have are strap-on Petzl Vasak's which can be set to be either rigid or hinged modes. I imagine I'd use the hinged mode for low-grade snow fields, and the rigid mode for front-pointing on steeper slopes. So, I don't see compatibility as a problem.
B)Warmth
The Fugitives have a Goretex membrane, are fairly high around the ankle, and the tongue is connected to the ankle-cuff. So, with a pair of gaiters, I'm confident that snow will stay out and my feet would stay dry. The concern WRT warmth is that they aren't insulated very much - but can this be compensated with warm socks? Thoughts on winter footbeds? such as these recommended in this thread
Does this advice apply to Whitney as well? (and Sierras in general?):
C)Stiffness
Backpacking boots like my Fugitives have very flexible sole, but I'm not planning on doing technical climbing. Posts like the quote above have led me to believe that that stiffness isn't that important for non-technical routes. BUT, what about a 'semi-technical' route like the Mountaineer's route in winter? How much front-pointing (and how steep) is involved in the climb, and can I get by with 'locking' the Vasak crampons into the stiff mode for this? I don't expect to be leading the group, so I'll mostly be following in the kick-steps of others. That said, I'm a bit concerned about unpredictable snow conditions and don't want to get into trouble if we end up on hard ice/crust.
I have Asolo Fugitive GTX boots that I'm considering using, but would shell-out for proper boots if these are completely inappropriate or unsafe. At this time though, I don't intend to do any mountaineering outside the California Sierras, or any technical winter climbing.
Three main-issues (as I understand them):
A)Crampon Compatibility
The crampons I have are strap-on Petzl Vasak's which can be set to be either rigid or hinged modes. I imagine I'd use the hinged mode for low-grade snow fields, and the rigid mode for front-pointing on steeper slopes. So, I don't see compatibility as a problem.
B)Warmth
The Fugitives have a Goretex membrane, are fairly high around the ankle, and the tongue is connected to the ankle-cuff. So, with a pair of gaiters, I'm confident that snow will stay out and my feet would stay dry. The concern WRT warmth is that they aren't insulated very much - but can this be compensated with warm socks? Thoughts on winter footbeds? such as these recommended in this thread
Does this advice apply to Whitney as well? (and Sierras in general?):
If you take uninsulated leather backpacking boots into the Whites or on to Mount Washington, I give it 2-3 trips maximum before you get caught in bad weather and lose some toes.
Get a pair of winter boots. If you spend $200 - that's only $20 per toe that you want to keep.
C)Stiffness
almost all modern boots (not looked at the newest Scarpas) are actually way too stiff and technical for what many climbers are doing, which is mostly hiking. Nepals are good boots for technical ice and mixed climbing where you want stiffness for frontpointing.
Backpacking boots like my Fugitives have very flexible sole, but I'm not planning on doing technical climbing. Posts like the quote above have led me to believe that that stiffness isn't that important for non-technical routes. BUT, what about a 'semi-technical' route like the Mountaineer's route in winter? How much front-pointing (and how steep) is involved in the climb, and can I get by with 'locking' the Vasak crampons into the stiff mode for this? I don't expect to be leading the group, so I'll mostly be following in the kick-steps of others. That said, I'm a bit concerned about unpredictable snow conditions and don't want to get into trouble if we end up on hard ice/crust.