SummitPost.org

Well, I don't know about crack climbing, but I can tell you from personal experience that it is a lot easier to mantel without breasts.

UberBabs wrote:Pardon me, but that does not sound like a legitimate excuse. I have substantial implants and believe me they are sensational protruberances that could probably be used to jam cracks themselves. In sum, they don't get in the way. My crack technique suffers from being too tense and trying to grab something -- anything -- inside the crack rather than just relaxing and levering.

By the same token, wouldn't you guys' pecs/man boobs get in the way?

Personally I'm not sure it's a good excuse either, not that she should be making excuses to begin with. I'm just relaying her observation in hopes someone felt the same way or maybe had something to offer. Your confirmation that it should not be a problem might even be all it takes.

Maybe she is just not levering right or doesn't know what to do with her arms (she has the hands and fingers themselves figured out pretty good). I will check out that other link someone posted. She can def. do some, but others that are not much harder she flops right out of.

So no, this was not bait, and thanks for chiming in UberBabs.

(she did just quit working at victorias secret a month or so ago so I think she still has boobs on the brain, also)

erykmynn wrote:Personally I'm not sure it's a good excuse either, not that she should be making excuses to begin with. I'm just relaying her observation in hopes someone felt the same way or maybe had something to offer. Your confirmation that it should not be a problem might even be all it takes.

erykmynn, I've had a bilateral mastectomy as I was diagnosed with breast cancer. Pre breast cancer, I used to feel like my breasts got in my way when I was climbing. However, my climbing didn't improve when I got rid of them. In my previous post, I said that manteling was easier without breasts and it is; however, that is the only thing I find easier. I still find most of the same things difficult, including crack climbing.

You might want to suggest to your gf that she learn crack climbing from a woman. Her hands are probably a lot smaller than yours and she probably would benefit from seeing another woman's technique.

lisae wrote:

erykmynn wrote:Personally I'm not sure it's a good excuse either, not that she should be making excuses to begin with. I'm just relaying her observation in hopes someone felt the same way or maybe had something to offer. Your confirmation that it should not be a problem might even be all it takes.

erykmynn, I've had a bilateral mastectomy as I was diagnosed with breast cancer. Pre breast cancer, I used to feel like my breasts got in my way when I was climbing. However, my climbing didn't improve when I got rid of them. In my previous post, I said that manteling was easier without breasts and it is; however, that is the only thing I find easier. I still find most of the same things difficult, including crack climbing.

You might want to suggest to your gf that she learn crack climbing from a woman. Her hands are probably a lot smaller than yours and she probably would benefit from seeing another woman's technique.

Thanks Lisae, that is really helpful and telling (and I'm glad you're here today to share!).

She probably would learn well from a woman. I'm not really teaching, per-se as we're learning together, but i'm sure it would be a huge benefit. Her hands are only a little smaller, so that hasn't been too big a deal but obviously our bodies and technique are still very different.

We know a few good female climbers, but the ones we see a lot are not into crack climbing. hmm.. maybe we can post a flyer at the gym or next time we're on a trip with a big group she can find someone to buddy up with. Unless someone has a better suggestion for finding a mentor.

thanks again,
-Eric

Read the Dale Bard article and practice. It really isn't a man/woman thing because hand size is only relative to the particular crack you're climbing. You could make the same argument about hand size among guys. Either way, you have to learn how to climb the size of crack in front of you. Having a strong back helps too, but good technique is far more useful.

fatdad wrote:Read the Dale Bard article and practice. It really isn't a man/woman thing because hand size is only relative to the particular crack you're climbing. You could make the same argument about hand size among guys. Either way, you have to learn how to climb the size of crack in front of you. Having a strong back helps too, but good technique is far more useful.

True about hand size being relative and good technique but I do think men and women emphasize different things, based on their strengths.

lisae wrote:

fatdad wrote:Read the Dale Bard article and practice. It really isn't a man/woman thing because hand size is only relative to the particular crack you're climbing. You could make the same argument about hand size among guys. Either way, you have to learn how to climb the size of crack in front of you. Having a strong back helps too, but good technique is far more useful.

True about hand size being relative and good technique but I do think men and women emphasize different things, based on their strengths.

Crack climbing is a very hard thing to master. The best way to become good at it is to go pick up your mail at: General Delivery, Yosemite Valley, Ca. for about 2 years...... when your like 23 years old. Worked for me.

But the topic is: do the mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

or if I get Eric’s GF’s dilemma correctly, its do larger mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

I have a friend who has 38D's, just like my wife... I know cause they were talking about size, equipment and such and started swapping bras and well that's how I know....

Anyway, Misa Knows how to climb any size crack, because she is strong and she put in her 2 years in the valley. Oh yea did I point out the fact that she is way strong......

I watched Misa lead Insomnia at Suicide one day and she put in like 5 pieces of pro....

So I don't think it's the TaTas that get in the way, unless your one of these modern porn stars and you can't walk upright anyway, .

I think that of all the rock-climbing disciplines, climbing cracks is very dependant on how strong you are. If your to weak to do a "hand cup" and hold yourself in a crack, no amount of fancy technique will get you up.

So Eric, get that girl on the pull up bar, the Bachar Lader and go out and climb cracks, you will fail a lot, but just keep at it. It takes lots of time.

have fun

Guyzo wrote:

lisae wrote:

fatdad wrote:Read the Dale Bard article and practice. It really isn't a man/woman thing because hand size is only relative to the particular crack you're climbing. You could make the same argument about hand size among guys. Either way, you have to learn how to climb the size of crack in front of you. Having a strong back helps too, but good technique is far more useful.

True about hand size being relative and good technique but I do think men and women emphasize different things, based on their strengths.

Crack climbing is a very hard thing to master. The best way to become good at it is to go pick up your mail at: General Delivery, Yosemite Valley, Ca. for about 2 years...... when your like 23 years old. Worked for me.

But the topic is: do the mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

or if I get Eric’s GF’s dilemma correctly, its do larger mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

I have a friend who has 38D's, just like my wife... I know cause they were talking about size, equipment and such and started swapping bras and well that's how I know....

Anyway, Misa Knows how to climb any size crack, because she is strong and she put in her 2 years in the valley. Oh yea did I point out the fact that she is way strong......

I watched Misa lead Insomnia at Suicide one day and she put in like 5 pieces of pro....

So I don't think it's the TaTas that get in the way, unless your one of these modern porn stars and you can't walk upright anyway, .

I think that of all the rock-climbing disciplines, climbing cracks is very dependant on how strong you are. If your to weak to do a "hand cup" and hold yourself in a crack, no amount of fancy technique will get you up.

So Eric, get that girl on the pull up bar, the Bachar Lader and go out and climb cracks, you will fail a lot, but just keep at it. It takes lots of time.

have fun

Thanks Guyzo, If anything this echoes what the others have said. I think it will be helpful that she can stop wasting energy focusing on something that, thanks to everyone's input, clearly isn't the problem.

Bachar ladder seems like a great idea! If only I had someplace to put one....

erykmynn wrote:

Guyzo wrote:

lisae wrote:

fatdad wrote:Read the Dale Bard article and practice. It really isn't a man/woman thing because hand size is only relative to the particular crack you're climbing. You could make the same argument about hand size among guys. Either way, you have to learn how to climb the size of crack in front of you. Having a strong back helps too, but good technique is far more useful.

True about hand size being relative and good technique but I do think men and women emphasize different things, based on their strengths.

Crack climbing is a very hard thing to master. The best way to become good at it is to go pick up your mail at: General Delivery, Yosemite Valley, Ca. for about 2 years...... when your like 23 years old. Worked for me.

But the topic is: do the mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

or if I get Eric’s GF’s dilemma correctly, its do larger mammerys hinder crack-climbing performance?

I have a friend who has 38D's, just like my wife... I know cause they were talking about size, equipment and such and started swapping bras and well that's how I know....

Anyway, Misa Knows how to climb any size crack, because she is strong and she put in her 2 years in the valley. Oh yea did I point out the fact that she is way strong......

I watched Misa lead Insomnia at Suicide one day and she put in like 5 pieces of pro....

So I don't think it's the TaTas that get in the way, unless your one of these modern porn stars and you can't walk upright anyway, .

I think that of all the rock-climbing disciplines, climbing cracks is very dependant on how strong you are. If your to weak to do a "hand cup" and hold yourself in a crack, no amount of fancy technique will get you up.

So Eric, get that girl on the pull up bar, the Bachar Lader and go out and climb cracks, you will fail a lot, but just keep at it. It takes lots of time.

have fun

Thanks Guyzo, If anything this echoes what the others have said. I think it will be helpful that she can stop wasting energy focusing on something that, thanks to everyone's input, clearly isn't the problem.

Bachar ladder seems like a great idea! If only I had someplace to put one....

Move to Camp 4.

I have some experience with sucking at crack climbing and with boobs getting in the way but can't honestly say that I've ever experienced both at the same time. Kinda wish I'd thought of it though because it might be a passable excuse. I suck at crack climbing for many reasons but sadly my breasts are not one of them. In fact, the last time I was tortured, I mean went crack climbing, we were discussing the many ways they might be used to my advantage... kind of a jug jam kind of scenario... or perhaps if they were filled with helium.... or Nike air boobs that you could inflate to fit any situation? Seriously though.... they DO get in the way when I golf so I've invested in several compression bras that buy me a little more space for my terrible swing so if she really feels like they are in her way, she might try a little bondage. A tensor bandage works well too. But she probably just sucks. You really don't need to make up excuses for sucking at crack climbing. Jamming body parts into carnivorous cracks hurts. twisting joints in ways they don't like to be twisted and then putting all your weight on them is just retarded and masochistic. Crack climbing requires way more muscle than most girls have... especially if she's leading. I've run out more than a few cracks just because I knew I wouldn't be able to hold on long enough to get a piece in. Nike helium boobs would solve all these problems so I hope they get cracking on that

Sounds like your technique may be coming into question. Or maybe try a sports bra.

as an aside the longest possible hand jamb reach is with one hand thumb out at the waist with the opposite hip towards the rock and the other hand thumb in arm stretched out straight up above.

Another big question about crack climbing is whether to use tape or try to develop calluses. The only other choice is spider mits. A major factor in crack climbing is avoiding the pain. If it's painful to grip the crack you won't be able to hold on near as hard or as long.

Watch a good climber doing a sequence of tricky jams.

As she sets each jam, her hand will be relaxed so she can feel the features and find the sweet spot. Then on comes the power, but just enough to do the job.

Trying to get a good jam with a tensed up hand, and then having to over-crank on it because it is not set as well as it could be is a recipe for trouble.

Often you will see a crack climber smartly shake out her hand between jams. This can bring a little rest and circulation, but importantly it relaxes the hand to prepare for the next jam.

Ok, I'm not of the feminine gender either (though I crack climb with quite a few good female crack climbers.

Any body type can be an "issue" if you let it, legs that are too long, too short, personally I have a pinky finger that is distrorted when I landed on my arms after a drunk driver hit me. Learn to deal with what your body is.

I agree with Guyzo, crack climbing has a steep initial learning curve. I don't know your GF tolerance to frustation but I learned for me to hone in my crack skills was to get onto a crack way over my head and work through it (and it was frustrating but it did highlight my mistakes).

Learn jamming thumbs up and down. They will both come into play at times. Learn to di finger cracks thumbs up and down. Sometimes when its a flared finger jam, you can jam better thumbs up. Learn to be efficient with the dreaded ringlocks.

Now I can see how being endowed as a female would be a problem on chickenwing offwidths but thats a different story.

I'm not female either, but .. oh, what the hell, all the other guys are doing it

It took me about two months of practice twice a week to be able to do a simple hand crack in the gym. Maybe I'm just slow ..

I've also noticed that during recovery periods (after breaking something) my crack climbing technique tends to suffer and takes a while to re-develop. Maybe it's because certain muscles get atrophied.

I think Nat said the lats (latissimus dorsi) were fairly important .. if that's the case, perhaps doing lat pull-downs would help ?

My female gym partners have varying degrees of disgust with crack climbing, but I always see other women in the gym cruising cracks that would spit me off in the first 10 feet ..

Wide cracks and finger cracks are still a work in progress for me. My offwidth technique has been the slowest to return, maybe partially because I have been lacking the stamina for the initial period of thrashing .. hoping to work on that more this winter.

Buckaroo wrote:Another big question about crack climbing is whether to use tape or try to develop calluses.

I never use tape, ever. I find it hides the feel of the jams......

Calluses..... a quick look at the back of my hand ..... no calluses, just a bunch of scars, with dead nerve endings.

I always laugh when I watch people "taping up" to go climb....... Big production, to make those gloves with the extra thick part on the back of the hand..... just to go climb a 5.8 face climb.

But I really hate picking up all that tape that ends up littering the base of the Weeping Wall.

If you tape, please pick up your trash, please.

GK