Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:30 pm
Watch a good climber doing a sequence of tricky jams.
As she sets each jam, her hand will be relaxed so she can feel the features and find the sweet spot. Then on comes the power, but just enough to do the job.
Trying to get a good jam with a tensed up hand, and then having to over-crank on it because it is not set as well as it could be is a recipe for trouble.
Often you will see a crack climber smartly shake out her hand between jams. This can bring a little rest and circulation, but importantly it relaxes the hand to prepare for the next jam.
As she sets each jam, her hand will be relaxed so she can feel the features and find the sweet spot. Then on comes the power, but just enough to do the job.
Trying to get a good jam with a tensed up hand, and then having to over-crank on it because it is not set as well as it could be is a recipe for trouble.
Often you will see a crack climber smartly shake out her hand between jams. This can bring a little rest and circulation, but importantly it relaxes the hand to prepare for the next jam.