absinthe52 wrote:I want to use a sliding X since I am without a cordellet for right now. As there is no Top-Shelf for the redirect, whats the best method to set this up so I can belay off my harness? Also, I'm usuing a B-52. If I want a direct belay, can I just clip another locker in to the belay anchor? Thanks
Oh yes, question refers to a two bolt achor system, not trad. Instead of messing with the anchor system for a redirect, can I just clip a quickdraw into either bolt and use that?
Why a sliding X or a Cordelite on a two bolt anchor?
Are you afraid it might fail?
It will not, I assure you.
It is always best to belay off of your harness. Always.
My own tried and true method.
Get to bolts
Clip into one of the bolts with your own "Personal Anchor System" .... ie. A sling.
Clip into the OTHER bolt with the rope, I prefer using a clove hitch for this one.
Next, Place a QD on one of the bolts. The main point to look for is this: What side will the follower be coming up from? If the right side, put it on the right side. If left put it on the left side.
Next, put the rope through what ever belay deal you use. (Personally I prefer using the old time Hip Belay for this cause I can reel in huge hand-fulls of cord cause the guys I climb with run up pitches quickly when on TR)
Then clip it through the QD so it runs down to the next climber.
Now if the climber on TR falls, you get pulled into your anchor and not pulled around.
Pretty F-ng simple, NO?
I have watched some take about 15 min setting up a belay at bolts using all manner of equilizing deals.
Using the method I described above takes about 15 seconds.
GK