Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 6:04 pm
The main difference is that unlike the Prusik the Klemheist (or Machard) is meant to lock in one direction only.
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brenta wrote:The main difference is that unlike the Prusik the Klemheist (or Machard) is meant to lock in one direction only.
nhluhr wrote:Can you help me understand the difference in application between a klemheist and a prussik? The klemheist seems easier to do one-handed (for me) so I'm wondering if there's a reason I should worry about using it?The Chief wrote:If I were ever in any situ in which I needed to ascend a rope WITHOUT the proper piece of mechanical eq that is designed to do so, I would instantly use these two very safe and well proven methods to do so. I have indeed become well versed in the use of both techniques over the years. These both have saved my ass on a few occasions as a matter of fact.
All I can say in this matter, please do not try and improvise eq and use them for what they are not intended for without first thoroughly researching the potential dangers and consequences of doing so.
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<prussiks>
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Keep It Simple & Standardized!
ARosenthal wrote:
Kleimheist vs. prusik generally comes down to the fact that the kleim requires a carabiner where the prusik does not. In many cases weight is minimized and as such extra locking carabiners may not be available. In this case the prusik is the only choice. I think the kleimheist may grip an icy rope better, so that may be an advantage. As far as I know there's no disadvantage to the kleimheist as long as you have the gear to rig it; they're both a pain to release when weighted but the kleim is probably easier.
Mountain Impulse wrote:ARosenthal wrote:
Kleimheist vs. prusik generally comes down to the fact that the kleim requires a carabiner where the prusik does not. In many cases weight is minimized and as such extra locking carabiners may not be available. In this case the prusik is the only choice. I think the kleimheist may grip an icy rope better, so that may be an advantage. As far as I know there's no disadvantage to the kleimheist as long as you have the gear to rig it; they're both a pain to release when weighted but the kleim is probably easier.
Kleimheist is not tied with a carabiner. The friction knot tied with a carabiner is the Bachman. The Bachman is similar to the Kleimheist, the difference being the cord is wrapped around the spine of the carabiner and the rope.