Self Rescue on Ice
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:08 pm
I was talking to my climbing partner about self-rescue during an ice climb, and got stumped on a question. I tried searching the web and prior SP threads, couldn’t find an answer. So, here’s the question:
If a leader falls near the end of a lead (more than half the rope out), and is injured so that he can’t participate in the rescue (by unloading the rope), then the second/belayer will need to escape the belay and begin the self-rescue. I understand that rock anchors are typically multi-directional, so that escaping the belay is relatively straightforward. But on ice, at least from what I have seen, the anchor is usually constructed to protect the belayer and to allow him to hold a leader fall. If the belayer tries to escape the belay, the transfer of the load from the belayer to the anchor will cause the anchor to invert -- and drop the leader several feet. Tried that in my backyard -- doesn’t work very well.
What’s the answer? Should all ice anchors be built with multi-directionality? Does the belayer attempt to add multi-directionality after the fact (that seems risky)? Is there an easier fix?
My guess is I am missing something simple (and will get an earful from the experts), but that’s okay, I just want to know. Any help would be appreciated.
If a leader falls near the end of a lead (more than half the rope out), and is injured so that he can’t participate in the rescue (by unloading the rope), then the second/belayer will need to escape the belay and begin the self-rescue. I understand that rock anchors are typically multi-directional, so that escaping the belay is relatively straightforward. But on ice, at least from what I have seen, the anchor is usually constructed to protect the belayer and to allow him to hold a leader fall. If the belayer tries to escape the belay, the transfer of the load from the belayer to the anchor will cause the anchor to invert -- and drop the leader several feet. Tried that in my backyard -- doesn’t work very well.
What’s the answer? Should all ice anchors be built with multi-directionality? Does the belayer attempt to add multi-directionality after the fact (that seems risky)? Is there an easier fix?
My guess is I am missing something simple (and will get an earful from the experts), but that’s okay, I just want to know. Any help would be appreciated.