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Re: Solo aid climbing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:03 am
by kamil
Thanks folks for digging this up!

That's exactly what Matt was writing about:
MattGreene wrote:If you were clipping both rope sections into each piece of protection, that'd probably give you 6-10 pinch points. I'd expect severe drag, but could be wrong.

Looks like Colin didn't get too much drag.
You can do it when your pitch isn't longer than half of your rope.

Colin Hayley wrote:And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!

Rope-soloing IS sketchy by principle. It's just a wee bit safer than free soloing.

Bloody hell, I miss Chief here!

Re: Solo aid climbing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:22 am
by kamil
Whatever we think, there was an occassional word of wisdom in his tirades :) I'd be interested to hear what he thinks of that.

Re: Solo aid climbing

PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:04 am
by mvs
myfierceblackhound wrote:
kamil wrote:Bloody hell, I miss Chief here!


Why? There are still plenty of self righteous, self absorbed, and self deluded "has been" climbers hanging out on SP.


Hey, I resemble that remark! :D Wait I never was even a has-been...:D