Re: Ya gotta fall
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 2:05 pm
I disagree with recommending someone to go soloing, even below their grade.
Rock Warriors Way is a great book which can be applied to all situations, since it tells you to logically assess the risk without the ego becoming involved. It also says that all falls are NOT equal. Learn to understand when falls are reasonable and not. Learn to be logical about it without the emotional aspect which can skew your judgement.
Understand that the fear of falls or lack of fear is a continuum. Some get scared with a piece every 2 ft and others are comfortable aclimbing at their limit with gear every 20 or so feet. Most people are somewhere in between. Myself, I go through phases. For the last couple years I was very go for it, and one one route I took multiple 20-30ft falls onto a green 0 black diamond C3. After breaking my foot, I am a bit leary, but I know that I need to work through that. Be honest with yourself (and if you are honest about yopurself with others you will be honest with yourself). If you can't admit your own faults, you won't work on them.
Concentrate on what needs to be done. If you wanna get a glimpse of this taken in the extreme, google Nik Berry's blog of his recent ascent of China Doll (5.14a R)... Way to be in the moment (I'm a Nik Berry fan since I climbed with him once when he was a local with just a few years of climbing but his calmness and drive was apparent)
Rock Warriors Way is a great book which can be applied to all situations, since it tells you to logically assess the risk without the ego becoming involved. It also says that all falls are NOT equal. Learn to understand when falls are reasonable and not. Learn to be logical about it without the emotional aspect which can skew your judgement.
Understand that the fear of falls or lack of fear is a continuum. Some get scared with a piece every 2 ft and others are comfortable aclimbing at their limit with gear every 20 or so feet. Most people are somewhere in between. Myself, I go through phases. For the last couple years I was very go for it, and one one route I took multiple 20-30ft falls onto a green 0 black diamond C3. After breaking my foot, I am a bit leary, but I know that I need to work through that. Be honest with yourself (and if you are honest about yopurself with others you will be honest with yourself). If you can't admit your own faults, you won't work on them.
Concentrate on what needs to be done. If you wanna get a glimpse of this taken in the extreme, google Nik Berry's blog of his recent ascent of China Doll (5.14a R)... Way to be in the moment (I'm a Nik Berry fan since I climbed with him once when he was a local with just a few years of climbing but his calmness and drive was apparent)