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Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:16 pm
by MoapaPk
Note that PW has very little on his harness, is wearing long pants (hefty long pants), and is hauling his stuff. The knee pads are a bit flip, but some folks put thin pads under their pants or just bandage their knees before.

We can't see into the upper crack, so maybe it has flaring nasty walls and is not too deep at top. The bottom looks easy. Geez, I hope the pics in your TR will not be all fisheye views! Is that a chockstone blocking the top? That could be your biggest problem, but also the easiest place to put protection.

As a non-climber, my biggest mistake is getting caught up on pack/gear in a chimney.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:55 pm
by Dow Williams
You sure you do not have your grades mixed up on the conversion??? based on the photo, that exit would not be labeled anywhere close to 5.11c in the states.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:56 pm
by desainme
Did you put in a 2" by 4" piece of fir or did you make a chock out of Quercus Robur?

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:38 pm
by Fletch
Just toprope it.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:37 pm
by Hotoven
I would say just top rope it. If its a lot of fun, then consider leading it, but some climbs just are not worth the risk.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:26 pm
by Dow Williams
sjarelkwint wrote:believe me ...


hope you are not too offended that I don't...hardly ever...

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:40 pm
by Guyzo
Bolt it if it needs pro.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:10 pm
by Dow Williams
You are so full of it, but for what it is worth, you do entertain me mate.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:47 pm
by Dow Williams
you are just so hard core dude....not sure you need a partner for the nose....(which was going to be a bit hard to come by, so it all works out in the end)

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:43 pm
by Andrew Rankine
MoapaPk wrote:40cm? Is it consistent in width? I'm not a climber, but I've seen other non-climbers chimney up 16" cracks with parallel walls, no gear. Tough if you hit a constriction, or have a wide chest.

The only pic I could find right away (tougher when it is dead vertical):
Image


Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.

Re: Crack too wide for gear

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:33 pm
by MoapaPk
rankinesoccer wrote:Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.


Just a random granite pinnacle on the way to Gold Cross Peak, NV. Unfortunately, the highpoint of the peak is just a rounded lump.