SummitPost.org

^^^^

Looks like someone just magic-marked their brand new rope right before reading this thread.

brenta wrote:http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.64.2655

Not sure I want open any of those other links, I may 'resemble' them!

mrchad9 wrote:I have the ability to think for myself- rather than spew myths with zero data supporting them initiated by someone else.

Translation: "I can spew myths with zero data supporting them initiated by myself."

brenta wrote:http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.64.2655

Thats a good one for you brenta, since you apparently believe just about anything without trying to reason for yourself. Did you know the universe was created in seven days too?

You also think you are funny. I see a pattern...

Go back and read that UIAA notice again. Concentrate. Did you see that reference to Standard 101? That's not the Standard class for freshmen. Did you know that? From that reference, an informed person learns quite a bit. Of course you didn't, but Dunning and Kruger have put forth an explanation for that.

I could go on for quite a while pointing out the flaws in your reasoning, but it's like shooting fish in a barrel. Besides, there's no point in me wasting time with people lacking reading comprehension, logic, and a basic understanding of science.

Did not mean to hurt your feelings brenta, because I do not believe in your magic cutting markers. Let me know when you have the data from even a single scientific test. Just one.

Until then I have some beans you might want to buy.



Don't forget to tie in!

Hmmm,
I missed the part in the 'standard 101' about the rock abrading the rope@the point of the mark.
Interesting.

Just for emphasis, I again implore you to read:
The original 2002 UIAA tests that showed a possible 50% strength loss for ropes masked with felt tip pens, are briefly summarized in this document:
http://www.sterlingrope.com/media/docum ... manual.pdf READ THE ENTIRE section with the caveat by Pit Shubert, of UIAA.
Again recall what the UIAA means by 50% reduction.

The above report also found that getting a rope wet could reduce "strength" by 70%. That is more of a worry to me, as ropes tend to get wet all along their lengths.

CClaude seems to be focusing on some extreme scenarios that could degrade a rope. We do know that sulfuric acid is a bad actor, but I don't think it will be present in commercial markers with a "0" MSDS health rating. I'm pretty sure I could detect creosol just by odor.

I'm somewhat amazed, given that I see extremely worn, fuzzy, highly discolored ropes being used in yeoman duty all the time. Our club simply retires and cuts up ropes that have more than 3 bad falls.

A lot of static ropes nowadays are polyester sheaths on Dyneema, which generally shows even less solvent effect than nylon.

WOW!

I am far more concerned about this issue occurring and killing me than I am from a Sharpie. Have yet to see any realitstic tests done showing the same extreme total rope failure happening from a miss marked rope. You Sport Climbers out there take heed...

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/11/car ... amage-vid/

Holy shit.
I am going to book mark that one, Rick.

All markers, even those sold by rope manufacturers, make the rope stiff and I don't like that. I can feel the middle of the rope feed through my Gri-Gri even on factory marked ropes. I'm sure this affects the sharp edge resistance

mrchad9 wrote:I don't see any of the data used in that test. What rope, what marker, how many times was it repeated, etc. Looks like bull to me.

Marking a rope will decrease it 50%??? That's laughable. We might as well toss our knives away and use markers as scissors. I suppose bumping one with your crampon will make it shatter into a million pieces.

I just use my knife and cut a notch in the rope. Never wears off and won't decrease the strength by as much as a marker supposedly does.

I would most certainly be glad to have had my rope marked with a Sharpie when the weather had turned piss poor bad and I had to retreat in order to save my life, than to not have had it marked and died rapping off the end of it into oblivion because I did not accurately determine the half way point.

So why not just buy a two-color rope in the first place? Are they that much more expensive and is your life worth that extra expense?