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I'm looking to solo Grand Teton in a few weeks, going up the Owen-Spalding. I was looking for some updated info on the rappels. I've read in a few places that the upper, longer rappel can be done with a single, 60m dynamic rope with rope stretch. I've also seen some info saying that that rap station has moved and now requires two ropes. I'm hoping to rappel on a 60m, rather than a 60m and a tagline.

Also, does anyone have any info on the conditions on the OS as to snow/ice? Looking to climb the last week of August, but I see the upper mountain has gotten a few inches of snow.

You can definitely rap off the grand with on 60m rope. Talk to the rangers when you get there. Conditions will likely be determined in the few days before your climb.

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

I've rapped off the standard rappel off the Grand with a single 70m rope.

You could do the single 60m rappels by using the anchors to climbers right. Folks do stick ropes on the last anchor so be careful with rope management.

I seem to recall that the standard rappel off the Grand is 120'. I've always thought an accurately cut single 60m rope would be too short. Maybe folks swing in?

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

Use the slings, not the bolts. Throw the ropes to the south (skiers left) and aim that way on the way down and you'll just make it with a 60. If you do the two rap approach, those anchors are past the standard rap site and go straight down. It works, I've seen it done, heard of it being done over and over again. My last trip up there two Exum guides climbing for fun told me that was the way they would go without clients. The throw is the key, so that you land on the shelf against that side of the main wall.

If your going solo forget the rope altogether and just ask to rap off of someone elses rope already up there. We let a solo climber do that with our rope and it was no problem. Also gets you off of the mt faster as well as speeds up the sometimes long rap lines.

There are 2 different rappel staging areas which can be used for the rap to the Upper Saddle. The main one is commonly used with 2 ropes. It can be used with one 60m dynamic rope. As was stated elsewhere, keep the rope to the south and use the rap rings on the sling not the bolted chain if you are using a single rope. The upper saddle landing spot is sloping downhill. If you stay to the south, you will land on the highest spot. The second staging area is for those using one rope who don't feel comfortable with a single rope on the main rap (many), their rope is too small, or when the other rap is busy. The 2 staging areas are about 20ft (?) apart - I haven't measured it.

At the main staging area, there are two rappel stations: one bolted and one slinged. They are a few feet apart. Between the two stations there is a very short crack that can be climbed to reach a 'ledge' (about 8ft up the crack) that will take you south to the single rope (2 setup) rappel staging area. You can also reach this area from above. The slings for the single rope staging area are kind of out of sight until you are upon them. It is possible to down climb to the second setup but it's a little awkward.

There is always another option: down climb the Owen-Spalding route. This should be very easy when conditions are good if you soloed the O-S or the Upper Exum to reach the summit. It takes about 6 minutes to down climb from the rap area to the Upper Saddle when conditions are good and you know the way. Route finding from the main rap area isn't difficult if you have a route photo to guide you, or you have watched a few YouTube videos

Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/wyomingwhiskey Many others are available.
Route Map: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/orig ... 618736.jpg
Climbing Rangers Climbing Conditions blog: http://www.tetonclimbingroutes.blogspot.com/
Private blog for conditions: http://www.wyomingwhiskey.org/

Wishing you safe climbing.