SummitPost.org

I once had a girlfriend that led me to want to do dangerous solos! I guess the relationship was good and bad in a way.

My current girlfriend makes me want to spend time with her and not alone on a mountain face.

Ok, so I suppose this is more of a rock climbing thing. I know that I have personnally soloed harder stuff when rather horny and frustrated than at any other time in my life. I know the same can also be said for some of my friends. If the rest of you are immune to this problem, good for you.

At the same time I agree with Guy that I solo more then more I am climbing, because I am more comfortable on the rock. But this is play stuff, not serious life threatening stuff and really isn't what I was talking about.

I suppose then the question is: what is dangerous soloing?

For me at least it has a lot to do with on-sight kind of stuff. If I've done a route a hundred times, soloing it doesn't seem too dangerous (though of course something could always go wrong).

Still, what comes to mind is soloing in the backcountry, probably on bad rock, certainly on something I've never seen before. Going up when you're not sure if it gets easier or harder. Going up when you're not sure exactly how you're going to get down. That kind of stuff is the most dangerous, in my book. And so it's even more important to know - as I think Guyzo said - what your comfort level is.

I remember going up to Squamish with a friend in 2006 .. we'd just gotten into town, grabbed a guidebook and went to a little cliff to check it out. There was a 5.4 route in the book and he initially suggested I lead it, just to warm up (he leads more like 5.10-ish). I said something like "oh, I solo 5.4".

Next thing I know, he said "oh yeah ! Let's go !!" Gulp, had to put my money where my mouth was But up we went. There were some anxious moments, but we made it. I learned not to say such boastful things around him after that

On some of the more alpine routes in the Sierra I think you really have to be willing to solo the fourth / easy fifth class parts to make good time and avoid thunderstorms & nightfall. Belaying each and every pitch will just take too damn long. And in the Sierra, "fourth class" can mean anything up to 5.6.

I went through a period when I free soloed a fair amount up to 5.11. I think that to a degree this behavior had it’s roots in a failed relationship, a divorce several years prior. This is weird, because I wanted the divorce, but I was left with a profound sense of failure and inadequacy all the same. After the divorce I had a couple of “torrid” relationships which just fanned the flames, and even though deep inside I knew my motivations were less than pure, I kept soloing.

Then I saw the writing on the wall when, being casual and overconfident, I very nearly skipped off the last pitch of Igor Unchained in The Needles. It didn’t really hit me right away, but after a while I started having these falling dreams which would wake me up in full panic.

Since about 2004 my soloing has been limited to alpine 4th and easy 5th class routes, and I am comfortable that I am there for the right reasons. Nothing to do with you know what...

cbcbd wrote:
My current girlfriend makes me want to spend time with her and not alone on a mountain face.

Our girls must be related or something.

ksolem wrote:I went through a period when I free soloed a fair amount up to 5.11. I think that to a degree this behavior had it’s roots in a failed relationship, a divorce several years prior. This is weird, because I wanted the divorce, but I was left with a profound sense of failure and inadequacy all the same. After the divorce I had a couple of “torrid” relationships which just fanned the flames, and even though deep inside I knew my motivations were less than pure, I kept soloing.

Then I saw the writing on the wall when, being casual and overconfident, I very nearly skipped off the last pitch of Igor Unchained in The Needles. It didn’t really hit me right away, but after a while I started having these falling dreams which would wake me up in full panic.

Since about 2004 my soloing has been limited to alpine 4th and easy 5th class routes, and I am comfortable that I am there for the right reasons. Nothing to do with you know what...

When I look you in the eye I can tell you're not sane.

squishy wrote:Define soloing...

John Bachar defined soloing...



edit: MichaelJ, that's an inside joke, and perhaps a wee bit of the pot calling the kettle black... Funny though, I still miss that one...

I've done a fair bit of soloing, but the only climbs that had any direct link to a break up was a day at Sespe Gorge, where I onsighted a bunch of stuff up to about 5.7 or so. Way below my leading limit, but the climbs were all new to me and about 2.5 pitches in length. In retrospect, it seemed pretty stupid to me, although a fair amount (but certainly not all) of my soloing has left that impression.

I always thought soloing was induced from a lack of peanut butter.

ShortTimer wrote:I know that I have personnally soloed harder stuff when rather horny and frustrated than at any other time in my life.

Well, I guess that means you have an extra piece of pro on hand if needed. Every pun intended.

Although maybe for some it wouldn't qualify as a Big Bro.

Borut Kantušer wrote:

Borut Kantušer wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:How many of the world's great solos are just because someone isn't getting any?

Sorry, but I don't know what it's like.

This was supposed to be funny!
Like I never lacked a partner.

I did my soloing as a kid, before I really knew what doing it (sex) was.
Moderate (UIAA IV to V) rock cliff (40m tall) solo climbing.

So do you solo after sex????

Borut Kantušer wrote:

Guyzo wrote:So do you solo after sex????

Yes, but mostly sex after soloing, or whatever.

Oh yes Sex after soloing. That works too.

jhodlof wrote:On the other hand, couldn't the wrong type of woman lead a man to make a solo, roped, final descent?

It doesn't seem to. If anything could make me take the big leap she could, but that just doesn't happen.

I think failing health would be the only thing that would cause me to take that course, preferably far from rescue so that they leave me there to feed the ravens and coyotes.

Borut Kantušer wrote:

Guyzo wrote:So do you solo after sex????

Yes, but mostly sex after soloing, or whatever.

or solo during sex