Why runout bolting ?
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:32 pm
It's raining .. another bolt thread
I went to Pinnacles on Saturday with some local climbing buddies, Lisa and Justin. After warming up on some other stuff we went over to Dos Equis, which in Brad Young's new Pinnacles guide is rated 5.8 R. There are four bolts in about 90', FA 3/1980 by Larry Arthur and Bob Otter. I've led stuff at Tollhouse Rock that seemed to be bolted in a similar style, and had my meeting with Mr. Fear that day We each took a turn toproping it afterwards.
While eating lunch another party came by, and the conversation turned to why there weren't more bolts on this route, to make it safer. Naturally, Lisa who has more experience with Pinnacles climbing mentioned the ground-up ethic that is usually observed at the Monument, and that if the first ascensionists didn't see a need for more bolts, then their wishes should be respected. I casually piped up that it would not be as thrilling a lead with more bolts (would I have still gotten Elvis Leg if a fifth bolt was present ??)
btw We actually met Brad Young earlier in the day and chatted for a bit. Nice guy ! He mentioned that he had been part of the FA of Sea of Tranquility and later gone back to rebolt and retrobolt the route to make it safer (better and more bolts). At least that's what I remember .. maybe I have this wrong.
Anyhow, the other party had a good time on the route too. Did we miss anything when explaining the One True Path ?
I went to Pinnacles on Saturday with some local climbing buddies, Lisa and Justin. After warming up on some other stuff we went over to Dos Equis, which in Brad Young's new Pinnacles guide is rated 5.8 R. There are four bolts in about 90', FA 3/1980 by Larry Arthur and Bob Otter. I've led stuff at Tollhouse Rock that seemed to be bolted in a similar style, and had my meeting with Mr. Fear that day We each took a turn toproping it afterwards.
While eating lunch another party came by, and the conversation turned to why there weren't more bolts on this route, to make it safer. Naturally, Lisa who has more experience with Pinnacles climbing mentioned the ground-up ethic that is usually observed at the Monument, and that if the first ascensionists didn't see a need for more bolts, then their wishes should be respected. I casually piped up that it would not be as thrilling a lead with more bolts (would I have still gotten Elvis Leg if a fifth bolt was present ??)
btw We actually met Brad Young earlier in the day and chatted for a bit. Nice guy ! He mentioned that he had been part of the FA of Sea of Tranquility and later gone back to rebolt and retrobolt the route to make it safer (better and more bolts). At least that's what I remember .. maybe I have this wrong.
Anyhow, the other party had a good time on the route too. Did we miss anything when explaining the One True Path ?