ksolem wrote:Lisea, So folks have been adding convenience anchors to enable single rope raps at Pinnacles?
Hmm.
What would happen if someone installed rap stations halfway down the first and second pitches of Walk on The Wild Side in Joshua Tree just so you wouldn't have to carry two ropes out there or learn how to tie them together? Heck, even if Chris Wegener himself did it they'd get pulled in a quick minute.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to pick a bone with you. And I don't have any footprints at Pinnacles due mostly to geography. I'm just surprised that's going on unless I misunderstood you.
And besides, what good is a thread about bolting without someone getting their panties in a bunch?
In the case of the First Sister, the anchor is for convenience, as far as I can see. However, as the routes on that formation are 5.4 - 5.6, it sort of makes sense. And even with the anchor, the route is still run out.
The other anchor I mentioned, on the Old Coastanoan, have been added to make the descent safer, avoiding a 4th class walk off or a sketchy down climb to another anchor. I don't think the route is heavily climbed, even with the additional anchors. Also, it still takes 4 raps and two ropes to get down.
I talked to Tom Davis the other day, who has done a lot of FAs at the Pinnacles, regarding anchors on the High Peaks formations. He said by now most formation in the high peaks will have some sort of anchor on the top, to make getting off safer. He said folks used to do 'crazy things' and described a Pinnacles belay to me - ie one climber on each side of the formation, both rappeling at the same time.
All I know that before I climb on a new formation at the Pinns I want to if there is an anchor, if it is safe or if it is one manky bolt. I am glad to see good bolts added to some of the anchors.