Steve Larson wrote:Maybe it's just me, but the way the term "trad" is used nowadays it comes across as implying something kinda backward, not with the times. I don't like it much. Before there was "trad" and "sport" there was just climbing, and discussions about style. I do think style matters, but not in an absolute sense. I just want people to be up front about how they did something.
I am surprised you got that take Steve. Been around a bit. Trad means it is a gear climb or at least mixed with fixed pro. Sport means clipping bolts, just bring draws. Never once thought of it as a negative connotation. I
swear folks appear to over think the real climbing world and what is actually going on out here on a daily basis. Most everyone I know who does trad does sport as well.
The natural progression for many climbers is to get further off the ground. There are less folks willing to lead on gear, but seek it out to gain access to the longer climbs if they are ambitious. Some boulderers and sport climbers are obviously very content working difficult problems and that is all they do. It is all good and
I have never seen a disdain for any of it from within the industry, particularly anyone knocking on trad.
It does not have as much to do about style as to what is available to many depending on where they live. Without sport, many cliffs would be unclimbable and most folks would have nowhere to climb locally and would thus stick to running, biking and the sort.
Folks will hear me for example say I won't climb sport with them.....but that is only because I have a family who climbs sport, therefore sport climbing is reserved for them. I can get more done and have a better time with my wife, dog, daughters, son in laws, grandson at the crag then I can forcing them up some trad climb together. It all serves its purpose.
Just don't go bolting cracks or existing trad routes. That is what brings up the disdain within the community. I would not let that confuse one as to any infighting regarding sport-trad.