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How to rate friction climbs?

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:43 pm
by WalksWithBlackflies
Two weekends ago I had only my second climbing experience on routes that have been rated. Prior to that, all of my ascents have been free climbs on backcounty Adk slides which I merely assumed topped off at Class 4. Based on the rated routes I recently climbed, I now realize that some of these slide pitches have been low to mid Class 5. I also realize there is a big difference between a 5.4 friction and a 5.4 vertical climb (at least to me). So I was wondering for future reference, is there a basic set of rules for rating friction climbs?

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:54 pm
by nartreb
short answer: no.

Don't assume there's a clear distinction between fourth and fifth class, either.

Well, there is one guideline: a 5.6 friction climb tends to be steeper (or on a more slippery rock type) than a 5.3 friction climb.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:59 pm
by rpc
is there a basic set of rules for rating friction climbs?

yes, do some established friction climbs & you'll know what your new route should be roughly rated.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:44 pm
by welle
^^^ what rpc said, especially get on classics, i.e. routes established by Fritz Wiessner and alikes. Also, I think by 'free climbing' you meant 'free soloing' or unroped travel.

Re: How to rate friction climbs?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 3:26 pm
by The Chief
Shet, Fk, Motherfker and Fk That.....

Re: How to rate friction climbs?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:31 pm
by mrchad9
The Chief wrote:Shet, Fk, Motherfker and Fk That.....

You need to work on your spelling skills.