fatdad wrote:Bruno wrote:For a solo climb you would need to be alone on a non-equiped route. To my knowledge only Messner in 1980 has soloed Everest.
Well, that is true. That's a purist's definition but generally the one I ascribe to. Nevertheless, despite the climb being equipped, his ascent will be far more committing than one in a train of climbers being shepherded up (or should it be Sherpa'ed up?). I don't think anyone is going to confuse his ascent and Messner's.
Agree with you. I was't criticising Chad Kellogg, but just wanted to correct the use of "solo". By far his attempt was not solo, neither "unsupported" or "self-contained" as he received support throughout his climb at the different camps (food, hot water). Such support can shorten your ascent of several hours compared to if you have to boil the water yourself.
I just read Chad's blog, and found him extremely honest in his description, he is not trying to display his ascent as something different from what he did (as some have done in the past). I also appreciate his analysis on why he turned back at the Balcony:
"I reflected on the combination of problems at hand: wind, snow, traffic and fatigue. The ascent had a combination of issues that I could only learn from for the next ascent."
Source.I read his blog a bit further, and found his acclimatisation really good, reaching South Col during the process (on 7th May). Climbing without O2, I found he was careful enough to carry the extra pound for feet/hand warmers and not scarify his toes to save weight and time.
My only "suggestions" is that even though he arrived early at BC this year, for a future attempt he should better be ready for a summit push before 10 May. That's the only way to avoid the traffic jams always occurring during the good weather window(s) in the second half of May.