SummitPost.org

Palisades79 wrote:Don't any of you want to do a first ascent or new route ?

I want to do first winter ascent of something in Sierra...although confirming that no one climbed particular route on that peak is quite hard. Basically want to have own adventures mostly. Do not care if someone climbed it or not, as long as I do not have any information on how the route is in winter I believe the experience is nothing less than what first ascentionists had, if there were any.
Another goal is to climb more than I did in 2011, get stronger, take a significant vacation, and do a significant challenge.

Some of the SPS mountaineers & emblem peaks ,as well as many others,are not near one-day approach and Trans-Sierra ski routes and probably have not had any winter ascents particularly by technical routes.I've never gone a week in the Sierra without seeing anyone from another party except in the winter.

Winter ascent NE Buttress, Johannesberg Peak, WA

Winter Ascent Curtis Ridge, Mount Rainier, WA

Winter Ascent North Face, Granite Peak, MT

Tahoma Glacier with carry over DC, Mount Rainier, WA

Ptarmigan Traverse, North Cascades

Northern Pickets trip: Challenger Glacier, Mount Challenger, North Buttress, Mount Fury

Vitaliy M. wrote:I want to do first winter ascent of something in Sierra...although confirming that no one climbed particular route on that peak is quite hard. Basically want to have own adventures mostly. Do not care if someone climbed it or not, as long as I do not have any information on how the route is in winter I believe the experience is nothing less than what first ascentionists had, if there were any.

I agree with all of that, thus my confusion by your first sentence. Just don't try to confirm anything!

I'd like to knock off some CO county highpoints, maybe a few 14ers, and at least 50 Larimer county peaks. Keeping it real, you know?

CSUMarmot wrote:I'd like to knock off some CO county highpoints, maybe a few 14ers, and at least 50 Larimer county peaks. Keeping it real, you know?

What is it with CO climbers and the enumeration of peaks?

ExcitableBoy wrote:

CSUMarmot wrote:I'd like to knock off some CO county highpoints, maybe a few 14ers, and at least 50 Larimer county peaks. Keeping it real, you know?

What is it with CO climbers and the enumeration of peaks?

I dunno, gives me something to do?

Palisades79 wrote:Don't any of you want to do a first ascent or new route ?

Get this damn cast off is my first priority. Doctor told me even though it fits in my tele-boot (without the liner), it really doesn't belong in my tele-boot. I wonder what he thinks about my bouldering?

After that I want to attempt a 20ft 5-7" crack through a roof that a friend has found, but who knows if it will go by my partners or myself. Why, because its just SO wrong.

Also looking to do the first ascent of Paradise Lost (at Paradise Forks, Az) by an old fart in a pink tutu.....

Myself, once I get this damn cast off want to finally get Red Planet and Lifeline in Sedona, Arizona (finally)-

Also need to get back to the Creek to finish up business such as Optimator and Learning to Fly (broke my foot just after starting to work on that one). And need to get to Zion to attempt to free Moonlight before I get too old.

Also heading down to Peru in June to try to finish up business that I tried 10 years ago and got shut down on.

Palisades79 wrote:Don't any of you want to do a first ascent or new route ?

Yeah why not, as I said before. Got my eye on a few peaks in the Balkans.

Retirement.......

You's guys are taking this WAY TOO seriously, except for Bill Reed.

I'm NOT driven by goals. If it looks good, I do it. If it doesn't look good, I save it for later.

End of story ..

ExcitableBoy wrote:

CSUMarmot wrote:I'd like to knock off some CO county highpoints, maybe a few 14ers, and at least 50 Larimer county peaks. Keeping it real, you know?

What is it with CO climbers and the enumeration of peaks?

I'm native to WA...love the Cascades and I know where you are coming from when you say this.

However, after four years in Colorado, this just naturally happens. Peaks (including most 14ers and 13ers) have short approaches, or high 4WD roads and most really aren't hard. Of the CO top 100, less than 10 are class 5 with a handful more as class 4.

Living here turns you into a peak-bagger; while when I was in WA I had a much different approach to the mountains.
Now I look at climbing mountains day in and day out no matter where I'm at.

I'm also a Washington state native - from the west side, but I have a different view of the mountains here in Arizona.

Those mountains ain't going anywhere. If I climb them next week or next month or next year, there will ALWAYS be another mountain left to climb.

So, it really doesn't matter what I have on a list. A list is just a piece of paper with names on it. And those names will go on forever ..

lcarreau wrote:You's guys are taking this WAY TOO seriously, except for Bill Reed.

I'm NOT driven by goals. If it looks good, I do it. If it doesn't look good, I save it for later.

End of story ..

Some avid climbers especially those practicing alpine and expedition style, which require many disciplines want to progress and experience new "heights"(greater difficulty's, greater ranges , commitment, exposure maybe FA).

In order to do this, to go out and climb what looks "good" you must plan ahead and figure out what you want and need it's not something you just "do" .
craging i can go once a week but life gets in the way and narrows that down, going abroad for a season (1-3 months) is not something so easily achieved.
back to the OP the need for goals in a mountaineers agenda is so he can try (just try cus most aren't on the face every other day) and get to a higher proficiency more skills so he can climb what looks good and what looks great and even what looks impossible.
That is why every now and again I try and find out what i need to do this year winter\summer to achieve progression and have a great vacation in new areas requiring different skill to be applied.

after all i don't want to climb the same 5.10s in my area until im too old nothing wrong with that its just in my opinion climbing is like swimming if you dont move you sink.

Call it what you want thats my reason for planning ahead.
Excuse if this response seems condescending that wasn't my intention i apologize if so.
Your idea was just as great theres this saying the s.a.s say when packing gear for a mission: "keep it simple stupid".

mrchad9 wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:I want to do first winter ascent of something in Sierra...although confirming that no one climbed particular route on that peak is quite hard. Basically want to have own adventures mostly. Do not care if someone climbed it or not, as long as I do not have any information on how the route is in winter I believe the experience is nothing less than what first ascentionists had, if there were any.

I agree with all of that, thus my confusion by your first sentence. Just don't try to confirm anything!

Actually, we had a talk about that one time. I agree that it really does not matter if it is a first ascent or not (I mean first ascents on El Cap etc matter historically, but it doesn't really matter if it is a 3rd class scramble, I doubt your experience is much worse than FA party had if you do not research the route). What matters is the experience. Although, I would like to explore less traveled routes, it is really nice to have resources and see what other people think about different options etc. Internet makes it a lot easier for people to pick a worthy climb/striking line/goal for next year. Some dream peaks I saw from top of other peaks, but a lot of them became a goal from doing online research or asking around. Personally when I see a great climb I would rather do that, than some obscure FA up some peak no one will ever want to climb. Today MOST (not all) of FA happen on peaks/faces no one will care to repeat because they are so difficult to get to etc.