radson wrote:My lofty idea which will never be realised is that I think the price of the permit to climb Everest should be increased but credits given if someone has climbed other peaks in Nepal.
So for example $25,000 permit per person but if someone has climbed Manaslu/Dhaulagiri etc a credit of $15,000 is given. If they have climbed Baruntse maybe $10,000, Ama Dablam $7,000. The credit system perhaps weighted towards the lesser climbed peaks in the lesser visited regions.
So the increase disuades newbie climbers and steers people towards climbing other peaks in Nepal first before attempting the big 'E'.
Couldn't disagree more. While this MIGHT encourage some climbers to gain more experience, it ABSOLUTELY WOULD put south side attempts on Everest out of reach for many less wealthy climbers.
Before my 2001 climb of Everest, I had summited Cho Oyu (1997) and had failed attempts on Shishapangma ('98) and Broad Peak ('99). Some trips to the Andes, too. None of these climbs would have qualified me for any discount and the increased fee would have made an Everest trip impossible for me.
One could be very experienced, very strong, with difficult high altitude climbs elsewhere in the world and still not qualify for any discount. Less monied climbers often go to South America to gain affordable high altitude experience. I know that Andes altitude won't really prepare you for 8000m climbs, but it will give you a very good idea of how you'll handle it.
Radson, I can see that the "peaks in Nepal" part of your proposal might make it more appealing to the Nepali government, but I can't see the extra cost chasing the rich-but inexperienced crowd away. Just the poor-but-experienced climbers like myself.
I'm reminded of a conversation about Himalayan expedition costs, with the emphasis on Everest I had with some climbers in 1995. One guy was pushing the viewpoint that the cost of an Everest expedition was actually a part of the training process, that somehow being able to afford it showed that you were qualified for it. Nope, just means you got the money.