Re: Favorite under-appreciated routes of the season?
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:40 pm
"Down with the woolly mammoth
Tom Higgins, get over it! [Letters, June issue.] You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone. Be proud that you were the FAer and allow the legend of your abilities to remain true, as it so respectively has. Everyone knows that a Tom Higgins route is tough and spooky. (I will add, though, that I believe that Darryl Hansel’s work is far more sphincter-puckering than yours, even with the many added bolts that he never whined about.)
After 34 years of climbing all over this planet, I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun. Climbing is a way of freedom to one’s soul and spirit. I ask that those “ego heads” who make routes so dangerous (why did you even place bolts in the first place if you were so damn good?) and call it “way old,” remain home in their rocking chairs to rethink the true value of the act and life of climbing.
I, for one, plead that we leave the conquering mentality out of the climbing world and remember that this whole thing we call climbing is to go out and enjoy the day, the company, the rock, and to simply find peace. Let’s leave the selfishness to the politicians and just go have fun!
— Rick Poedtke, Crowley Lake, California"
Well this beautiful piece does not talk about the history, when and why the bolts were added, or by whom. It simply states that people do not own their first ascent lines and they should get over their ego and deal with others retro bolting their lines. Fairly simple - "Tom Higgins, get over it! You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone."
"I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun."
Could have told him about accidents, Vern asking to add bolts, or anything else, but you didn't. Your point was clear- put in as many bolts as you need to have fun on the rock. At least that's what it sounds like to anyone who reads it.
PS: According to Russ' post it was TH who led the pitch. "In response to posts on bolt removal on Hair Raiser, a few thoughts from the one who first led and protected the pitch."
I don't know who is right (you or him), but whatever the case is he was part of a FA team and should have been asked before new bolts went it- and he wasn't.
Tom Higgins, get over it! [Letters, June issue.] You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone. Be proud that you were the FAer and allow the legend of your abilities to remain true, as it so respectively has. Everyone knows that a Tom Higgins route is tough and spooky. (I will add, though, that I believe that Darryl Hansel’s work is far more sphincter-puckering than yours, even with the many added bolts that he never whined about.)
After 34 years of climbing all over this planet, I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun. Climbing is a way of freedom to one’s soul and spirit. I ask that those “ego heads” who make routes so dangerous (why did you even place bolts in the first place if you were so damn good?) and call it “way old,” remain home in their rocking chairs to rethink the true value of the act and life of climbing.
I, for one, plead that we leave the conquering mentality out of the climbing world and remember that this whole thing we call climbing is to go out and enjoy the day, the company, the rock, and to simply find peace. Let’s leave the selfishness to the politicians and just go have fun!
— Rick Poedtke, Crowley Lake, California"
Well this beautiful piece does not talk about the history, when and why the bolts were added, or by whom. It simply states that people do not own their first ascent lines and they should get over their ego and deal with others retro bolting their lines. Fairly simple - "Tom Higgins, get over it! You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone."
"I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun."
Could have told him about accidents, Vern asking to add bolts, or anything else, but you didn't. Your point was clear- put in as many bolts as you need to have fun on the rock. At least that's what it sounds like to anyone who reads it.
PS: According to Russ' post it was TH who led the pitch. "In response to posts on bolt removal on Hair Raiser, a few thoughts from the one who first led and protected the pitch."
I don't know who is right (you or him), but whatever the case is he was part of a FA team and should have been asked before new bolts went it- and he wasn't.