ExcitableBoy wrote:Yes. Steve Swenson soloed the North Ridge, but never claimed it because there were other teams on the mountain. This is according to Barry Blanchard, said in front of Steve who said nothing to counter the claim.
Steve, who is an absolute legend, would not claim such a thing because he joined Eric Simonson's team (after leaving the Kangshung Face team) and used their gear, though none of their O2, as well as the ropes and ladder. Technically, Barry is wrong, but too big to argue with, and Steve is too polite and accomplished to argue or need to claim such things
Messner's is the only true solo - no assistance of any kind above BC. Even Alison Hargreaves, whose 1995 climb is closest, used the ladder on the Second Step, though she carried all her own gear and did not use the fixed ropes. At least a few other climbers have carried their own gear, not used O2 etc, and not claimed a solo. It's no longer possible on that route, pre-monsoon, and certainly not on the South Col route. Claiming solo or 'unsupported' on the South Col route is disrespectful to the Sherpas who have risked their lives fixing a route through it.