SummitPost.org

Climbed three of your WI 5 routes in there this past week along with a mixed route. You apparently have had warm conditions in December and/or January.

Stairway to Heaven is missing the last two pitches. The first five were in decent shape, kind of picked out of course compared to what I am used to.

The Fang's tube is dangerous. We observed this route slide good last week, so got on it. But that Tube is too thin. We started up it thinking we could hug the left side, but paper thin. Big old movement occurred just setting up belay on a mushroom below it. So we traversed out left and did a short steep curtain that is in good shape.

Bridal Falls is a mess, but White Nightmare was all good. Also did a fun mixed route next to it, just to the right. If one of you could give me the name and grade, that would be great, can't find it mentioned anywhere. We were guessing M8+/-? Has a nice overhang to it.

I think there are two mixed routes located to the right of White Nightmare. The leftmost one is known as “La Santa Blanca”. The one farther right is known as “La Puta Blanca”. They are rated M5/M6 in good conditions. Not sure if my spelling of those names is correct but that’s all the info that I know.

Thank you Gazelle. We met a seasoned local climber in the parking lot before we headed up there who said something about two M7's and an M9 that direction. So I guess his two M7's have to be the M5/6's you are referencing. He did not give us names, nor did we inquire much, really were not sure we were even going to go for Bridal that day. Let me know if you find out any more, I will add some photos to your page this week in an attempt to identify it. Cheers.

There is a local guidebook called Mixed Wasatch by Doug Heinrich and Nathan Smith. Those routes that you mention are probably in there. Unfortunately the book is out of print and I don’t own a copy. A second edition is supposed to be made but isn’t out yet. Mountainworks in Provo is the place where you can get up to date info about routes. I looked up the basic translation. La Santa Blanca means The White Saint and La Puta Blanca means The White Whore. Well, I guess that fits with the theme of White Nightmare so that makes sense. I don’t know what the name of the more difficult M9 route is.

mountaingazelle wrote:There is a local guidebook called Mixed Wasatch by Doug Heinrich and Nathan Smith. Those routes that you mention are probably in there. Unfortunately the book is out of print and I don’t own a copy. A second edition is supposed to be made but isn’t out yet. Mountainworks in Provo is the place where you can get up to date info about routes. I looked up the basic translation. La Santa Blanca means The White Saint and La Puta Blanca means The White Whore. Well, I guess that fits with the theme of White Nightmare so that makes sense. I don’t know what the name of the more difficult M9 route is.

Thanks! Hope it is the White Whore or similarly named.....sounds much more classic!

Hey Dow,

According to Wasatch Mixed there are four mixed lines to the right of White Nightmare. In order from left to right (closest to White Nightmare to furthest):

1. El Santa Blanca ~M4, 4 bolts to ice. Easy to escape to ice at any point. (this climb is literally right along the right margin of the ice, VERY close).

2. La Puta Blanca M5/6, Climb up the corner and angle left. The fixed stopper is good. Miss clipping the stopper and you'll barely miss the ground. Climb 20 feet of ice to reach the anchors on the wall above the rock roof next to the ice. Grade varies depending on how much ice you have (more ice=easier).

3. M-Possible, M7: Start on La Punta Blanca, then go straight up over a small roof (8 bolts).

4. M-Possible Left, M6+: Start on La Punta Blanca, then go right up over a small roof. 7 Bolts.

Hope that helps. I'd imagine with the melty conditions up there, the mixed lines may have been harder than normal. Also, bear in mind that this book is now 6 years old and I'm sure there are additional lines being put up that are not in the book.

-Brenton (formerly fowweezer)

Thanks man...then we were on La Punta Blanca with little ice...."The White Tip"... preferred the name White Whore, but such is life...cheers