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Jeff Volp (Area Supervisor, Columbia Area Parks and Protected Areas Ministry of Environment Kootenay-Boundary) posted a June 19th photo and the following report:

“about 1.5m of snow at Applebee Dome, half that at the Conrad Kain Hut. A few big trees across the trail, and lots of bear sign...”

Questions:

1. is this a typical snow condition for this time of the year in the Bugaboos, or is this more snow than usual?

2. what type of crampons are best for these conditions?

~Swifty

just regular alpine crampons, there is no waterfall ice (or technical ice of any consistency) to climb and an alpine crampon is an alpine crampon despite what some gear whore might profess....once you break out onto the glaciers, there will be plenty of ice and hardpack....Bugaboos change dramatically from year to year and week to week and day to day...I would take no extra gear than normal myself, i.e. no snowshoes or skis....but then I am not looking to go in right now either......good luck

Thanks Dow. By any chance are you friends with Pat Morrow?

Swifty wrote:Thanks Dow. By any chance are you friends with Pat Morrow?

Does not ring a bell off hand, but most of the climbing folks in the Canmore-Banff region know me or have met me....I am quite horrible with names.....when you get to town, give me a poke on SP and would love to sit down with any guide book you are interested in and give you my 2c worth on the routes I have climbed. Cheers and good luck.

You might be interested in this

http://informalex.org/mharc/html/MCR/20 ... 00003.html

http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/default.asp

Hey Dow, when was the last time you used the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col? I know alot of people are now using the alternate.

dietcookie wrote:You might be interested in this

http://informalex.org/mharc/html/MCR/20 ... 00003.html

http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/default.asp

Hey Dow, when was the last time you used the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col? I know alot of people are now using the alternate.

well the Pigeon Fork glacier (alternate) was a little known secret used by most of us who knew the area well....but last year, the col was so dangerous that everyone seemed to have the Pigeon Fork wired.....depends on what route one is after, but to go up the col early morning before the rock fall, and then down the Snowpatch-Pigeon raps is the preferred method for any of the Snowpatch routes on that side......the issue is somewhat dependent on whether you are camping up at Applebee or in the hut as to which is the fastest descent from certain routes, cheers

thank you diet cookie. yes, I already got Jeff Volpe's reports and pictures earlier in the week. being from southern california j-tree area...well I've only used crampons once in my life so this should be exciting.

question - with an alpine start from the hut, how much time should I plan to cross the glacier and either up the col, or via the fork?

with a 3 person party, should we rope up or go solo up the col?

~lucky

Swifty wrote:question - with an alpine start from the hut, how much time should I plan to cross the glacier and either up the col, or via the fork?

with a 3 person party, should we rope up or go solo up the col?

~lucky

Your questions are so dependent on who is in the party, that they are impossible to answer....advice I do give a lot....don't rope up to someone on steep ice unless you are placing pro. I personally prefer to solo either route, Pigeon Fork or the col and generally move fast. For planning purposes, I would get an early start and take a nap in the afternoon if you get done early.