SummitPost.org

So I found out my best friend who just got into bouldering like 3 weeks ago has family 15 mins from the bugaboos. I don't do much rope climbing and he's afraid of heights. Great combo of awesomeness! But any recommendations for some class 3 or 4 scrambles or general mountaineering routes to check out? Hell we would have atleast a year to train. I wouldn't mind going to the low 5's. Idk about him on that. Any with somewhat easy walk offs or ways of the mountain I guess? I just started looking into it. Let me know what is up Canada and maybe I shall finally make my way up to the northern motherland!

xDoogiex wrote:So I found out my best friend who just got into bouldering like 3 weeks ago has family 15 mins from the bugaboos. I don't do much rope climbing and he's afraid of heights. Great combo of awesomeness! But any recommendations for some class 3 or 4 scrambles or general mountaineering routes to check out? Hell we would have atleast a year to train. I wouldn't mind going to the low 5's. Idk about him on that. Any with somewhat easy walk offs or ways of the mountain I guess? I just started looking into it. Let me know what is up Canada and maybe I shall finally make my way up to the northern motherland!

Eastpost Spire

http://www.summitpost.org/route/339201/ ... amble.html

Keep in mind you have to drive on a logging road and put chicken wire around your car.

As mentioned above, Eastpost is the most popular scramble in the Bugs. Crescent Spire, Cresent Towers, Brenta, and (I believe) Northpost all have class 3 routes up them.

For the low 5's, there is Pigeon Spire. It is often a quite congested route... but a classic. It is often done without the use of ropes, but there is considerable exposure. Also make sure to get the latest information on accessing Pigeon Spire... to my understanding, the Snowpatch/Bugaboo col has not been used this year (or longer?) because of hazardous conditions

sorry, forgot to mention that Pigeon Spire requires glacier travel...

Hulio, the col still gets used (was in great shape earlier this year, prob sucks right now), it is just a matter of when it gets out of shape every year (exposed rock and ice) and you don't get an overnight freeze, then most of us head up the Pigeon Fork glacier which does in fact involve more intricate glacier travel and either descend same or use the ice fall raps between Snowpatch and Pigeon. 15 minutes from the Bugs? They must own a heli.

Thanks guys. Ha when he told that I was like wow! Idk if I could handle anything like bugaboo spire but after hearing that I was like there has to be something I could handle and have a blast on.

Safe to guess no rap anchors? I probably should practice it at a local crag

that was what I was wondering. I can't think of who lives 15 mins from the Bugs.

klwagar wrote:that was what I was wondering. I can't think of who lives 15 mins from the Bugs.

No one does unless they live in and own the CMH lodge. That is like saying you live 15 mins from Lake of the hanging glacier.

Marmalota Mountain
Hound's Tooth

Both require glacier travel

They probably made up the time way to close. But still closer then others

Eastpost spire would deff have to be a go. Pigeon spire sounds pretty awesome! I'll check out some of the ones I never heard of later. It sucks looking up peaks on my phone on here