Sean
I was going to offer some ideas, but I see Alois provided a great list of climbs; he must have had a great summer in 1997. Dougherty's book is still the best for covering the highlights and the full range from K-Country to Jasper. The age of the book only really dates things like parking, trails and permits, but most of the approach information and route description is unchanged.
Dougherty's book is fairly vague for many of the described approaches and some of the climbs. I think that is why there is a lot of criticism of this book; it doesn’t take a climber by the hand and tell him/her where to walk and climb and exactly what gear sizes to place on each pitch. The number of routes and the shear extent of the book make that impossible. Personally, I like only knowing where to park and maybe the grade of the route; makes it an adventure.
In terms of permits; for climbing, none required (in the Rockies). Camping, generally, in any Provincial or National Park there are restrictions and conditions. More restrictive, even more limitations in the busiest areas, within National Parks. Any backcountry or frontcountry (road accessed) campground requires payment and most can get really busy with good weather.
Backcountry bivies without a permit are easy to pull off, but if using a busy trail to approach, good chance you can get busted by park officials. Frontcountry roadside naps are usually easy to sneak in the quiet areas of the parks, but tough to do in any busy park area like Banff or Jasper townsites or near Lake Louise or Field, B.C. In my experience the National Park staff are good to deal with when getting a “wilderness pass”. In the Rockies Mountain National Parks, a backcountry use permit (wilderness pass) is required for any overnight stay and climbers are permitted to bivouac on long routes or otherwise where necessary to safely complete a climb. Some restrictions apply; mostly prohibiting the most popular peaks (Edith Cavell, Temple, Athabasca).
If climbing south of Banff in Kananaskis Country, generally you must camp in a backcountry campground and pay in advance; similar caveat, good weather, these backcountry sites get busy. In the spring of 2013 the mountains in southern Banff and Kananaskis Country were ravaged by floods, many of the trails are still a mess and some missing bridges. Less of an issue north of Banff townsite.
In terms of snow depth in the winter of 2013/2014, generally slightly more than an average snow pack, but very unstable and unpredictable. Lots of very cold, then very warm, with several big dumps. These bad layers will linger until it all melts. Some years we get a hot July (50/50 chance) and all major snow is gone by August 1. Some years we get snow year round and get slab avalanches all summer long. Who knows. Generally by early/mid August the small glaciers (approach to Hind Hut or Neil Colgan Hut), are snow free and solo travel is easy, big icefields like the Columbia are always snow covered and very scary; not a great place to solo.
Thunderstorms are hit and miss, cooler summer means more snow lingering, but a lot less thunderstorms. July definitely has most, fewer in August and basically none in September. Some years September can be the best time to climb in the Rockies; often drier than August, cooler temps for snow freezes, no bugs, less tourists and fewer park ranger trail patrols
If climbing Assiniboine (recommended) approach via the BC side, no permits and good access on logging roads, see my Lunette Peak page for some good beta. Edith Cavell east ridge route is a scramble for any well seasoned alpinist, a descent of the east route saves a long walk out.
Bill’s link to the MCR page is great, best source for alpine conditions in the summer months!
A few choice routes I have climbed over the years and would recommend (in Dougherty's guide);
Mt. Louis – Kain Route 5.6 (no glacier); rappel descent
Castle Mtn. – Brewers Buttress 5.6 (no glacier); rappel descent
Castle Mtn. - Eisenhower Tower 5.4 (no glacier); rappel descent
Tower of Babel – McKay Route 5.7 (no glacier); walk off
Mt. Deltaform – NW Ridge 5.5 (no glacier); rappel descent (big ass alpine, Dow has an awesome description)
Mt. Fay – West Ridge 5.3 (lots of glacier); walk off
Mt. Colin - South-West Face Direct 5.7 (no glacier); walk off
Have only climbed Mt. Fryatt and Edith Cavell, not actually on the Ramparts, so I cannot provide first hand experience, but there are a pile of rock routes, reportedly on great rock, in the Tonquin Valley.
Dungeon Peak – 5.7 East Face
Oubliette Peak – 5.7 East Ridge
Since I now have two little boys and a pile of recent sport injuries, I am not getting out much, but I am happy to chat, send me a PM if you like.
Cheers
Kevin Barton