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I'm relatively new to the area and I was wondering where I can get some moderate water or alpine ice and when it comes in. I'm itching to do something over the Thanksgiving holiday but I'm not sure where I can get my ice fix. Any ideas?

Forget the Columbia Gorge... it's very very rare to get any ice worth climbing.

Happy Thanksgiving, Jon.

I'd like to learn ice climbing! Sounds like so much fun.

-Mark

billisfree wrote:Forget the Columbia Gorge... it's very very rare to get any ice worth climbing.

Happy Thanksgiving, Jon.

Not that rare, just not that often.

There is an ice climbing guide book for Washington State: http://www.amazon.com/Washington-Ice-Cl ... 930&sr=8-1.

Generally what other posters have written is correct; there is ice to be had if you know when and where to look but the season is fickle and short. The nearest reliable waterfall ice is near Lilooett, BC - a six hour drive from Seattle. Waterfalls really are a footnote in Cascades climbing; the real deal is alpine ice which enjoys a longer season but you have to be willing to work for it.

As for this Thanksgiving weekend, I doubt you will be ice climbing anywhere in Washington.

If you are looking for folks to head out with, shoot me a PM. I'd be happy to show you around when conditions are in.

ExcitibleBoy wrote:Waterfalls really are a footnote in Cascades climbing; the real deal is alpine ice which enjoys a longer season but you have to be willing to work for it.

I'm fairly new to the Cascades. What are some alpine ice routes you recommend?

I have no problem huffing it in to get some AI. What are some of the classic moderates around here?

Right now I am in the process of planning a trip up to the Canadian Rockies in March for some big water ice and I want to find some place semi-close to Seattle to brush up my skills and shake the metaphorical rust out.

I have found one ice partner so far but she is relatively new to the game. I'm looking for more experienced partners but those who enjoy climbing moderates. If anybody wants to go climb some non-committing ice let me know. I've found out the best way to size up partners is on laid back routes. I'm down for more committing stuff but only after an outing or two.

ClimbandBike wrote:

ExcitibleBoy wrote:Waterfalls really are a footnote in Cascades climbing; the real deal is alpine ice which enjoys a longer season but you have to be willing to work for it.

I'm fairly new to the Cascades. What are some alpine ice routes you recommend?

Here are some winter alpine ice routes that I have enjoyed:

Cosley-Houston route on Colfax Peak
NE Buttress of Johannesberg
NE Couloir of Eldorado
NE Couloir of Colchuck Peak
North Buttress Couloir of Colchuck
Stuart Glacier Couloir of Stuart
Triple Couloirs Dragontail Peak
NE Couloir of Dragontail Peak
North Face Direct of Dragontail Peak
North Face of Mt Index
NE Buttress of Chair Peak
North Face of Chair Peak
North Slab of The Tooth
N Ridge of Pinnacle Peak
North Face of Mt Hood
North Face of Mt Snoqualmie

Any word on how the Snoqualmie pass climbs are coming in, like Pineapple express or NY gully?

you can always go seracing at baker

jordansahls wrote:Any word on how the Snoqualmie pass climbs are coming in, like Pineapple express or NY gully?

Saw a post on CC.com, looks like they're coming in pretty well, they said we just need a deep freeze (which it looks like we're getting this weekend!)

Can't find the post though, sorry. But the pictures looked good.

-Mark

You're in luck... with coldest temperatures in last 10 years... there's bound to be some good ice climbing in the Columbia Gorge for the next few days.

(This doesn't happen every year)

http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7980098
sounds like ice climbing, looks like ice climbing...???

Just got back from a day on Chair Peak's North Face. Both the North Face and the NE Buttress are in great shape. Get out while the weather holds.

Snowshoed toward, but all the way to Artist Point, Mt Baker today. Wind so hard the snow falling horizontal was stinging my pretty face! Any way, guy was rapping of Pan Dome Ice. It was 31 degrees. Lots of ice there. Lots of snow failling right now too. Wish I knew how you guys put a picture on this forums section.