Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 10:53 am
Brian Jenkins wrote:My usual climbing partner has summitted about 5 times in the last couple of weeks solo and had to say as of last weekend: Hogsback is again left of the Gates by about 75 feet with a 45-50 degree snow traverse and then a short section of about 50 degree ice through the Gates. If you go via the Old Chute, he said it was steeper than normal, about 45 degrees and people are going up through all different variations over there in the rocks as the steepness is all about the same. Just expect steeper angles than normal years and consider a second tool for the Gates.
Check the Timberline Lodge website for up to date snow amounts up to 7000' and I'd guess on it being a bit more up higher with higher winds. Have made a few attempts on Leuthold lately myself and it indeed has been pretty windy up there. Good luck.
Thanks Brian! This is good info because I am actually going to lead people up the Old Chute May 8th-9th. Hopefully the weather will be good.