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New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:35 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I added the Adams Glacier route to the Mt Adams page: http://www.summitpost.org/adams-glacier/686134

Since it is officially winter, I updated my article on climbing Mt Rainier to include a section on winter climbing and added some informative links. http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-t ... ier/507227

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 5:21 am
by billisfree
Nice post... spell it... Takhlakh. How's that lake pronounced anyway? "Talk-Lack"?

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:10 pm
by Tangeman
Coo'.... I can see this turning into a "Whats New in the PNW" thread. Plus that'd be better than Europe cause it rhymes. :mrgreen:

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:14 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I added a new route to Bryant Peak at Snoqualmie Pass: http://www.summitpost.org/northeast-face/688261

This was an undocumented route that I climbed back in the winter of 1994. It is a nice winter climb and makes for a good alternative to Chair Peak.

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:50 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I added a new route page for the Northwest Ice Couloir on Eldorado Peak. http://www.summitpost.org/northwest-ice-couloir/688985

I also added photos to my trip report from my ascent of the route. http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.p ... irm_post=7

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:49 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I added another new route page for the Northeast Face of Eldorado Peak: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.p ... irm_post=7

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:15 pm
by ExcitableBoy
Thanks Tazz. I was looking for gift wrapping and found some old photos which inspired me to scan them and create a couple of route pages for them. If I run across my Mt Hunter photos I may take a stab at creating a page for that mountain.

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:42 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I added a trip report for the Northeast Butress of Colchuck Peak. http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.p ... irm_post=4

Although featured in Alan Kearney's book on Cascades climbs, this route does not get the recognition or traffic it deserves.

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:03 am
by ExcitableBoy
Thanks man!

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:14 pm
by Fred Spicker
tazz wrote:I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.


tazz, If you want a more moderate route that is not the slog up the glacier, you might consider the North Buttress reached via the North Buttress Couloir.

http://www.summitpost.org/north-buttress/163922

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:39 pm
by mvs
Fred Spicker wrote:
tazz wrote:I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.


tazz, If you want a more moderate route that is not the slog up the glacier, you might consider the North Buttress reached via the North Buttress Couloir.

http://www.summitpost.org/north-buttress/163922


Used to be I knew springtime arrived when I'd start seeing Colchuck NBC reports on cc.com. Second only to "when's WA Pass gonna open?" :lol:

I think people have such mixed reviews on the NE Buttress of Colchuck because everyone climbs a different route! You've got Beckey and Kearney, and then everyone who follows one ends up doing pieces of the other one, along with some crappy pink rock in between. We tried the Kearney and got it about half right. Definitely scary slab new route potential at the point where you gain the ridge crest near the end. Just look down those slabs to the glacier...surprised no one has done it?

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:17 pm
by ExcitableBoy
tazz wrote:I have always wanted to do this route. It is the "5.10 boulder move" in Mvs's page that sketches me. Can you get around it? Mvs? dan? anyone? I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.


Although MVS and I took different routes on our ascents, I think we joined the same route at some point because his description of the 5.10 boulder move and the pitches following sound very much like the terrain we climbed to exit the 4th class ledge and gain the ridge crest. From the route we took, it looked like the only viable option. It was kind of sketchy because the belay anchors were two small pieces placed far apart and there were a few unprotected, insecure moves before able to reach high to place a cam in a horizontal crack. After that a crack (I remember a diehedral at some point) offers good protection and more secure climbing. That said, there is route latitude on the buttress and one can gain the ridge crest before the start of the 4th class ledge, although it might not be any easier to continue along the buttress crest.

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:52 pm
by ExcitableBoy
After carefully looking at MVS's photo of his line of ascent, I believe we followed a very similar line, although we started down hill a little ways from his start. I superimposed my line of ascent in pink on MVS's photo here. The rest of the route looks to be the same. Image

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:35 pm
by mvs
ExcitableBoy wrote:
...
From the route we took, it looked like the only viable option. It was kind of sketchy because the belay anchors were two small pieces placed far apart and there were a few unprotected, insecure moves before able to reach high to place a cam in a horizontal crack. After that a crack (I remember a diehedral at some point) offers good protection and more secure climbing.
...


Yes! You nailed it! That is exactly where we were. After a slabby pitch without much pro, we found a sketchy belay. Then insecure moves, and then after that a (very nice) hand crack/dihedral. I'm actually really psyched that you were in the same place because no one else I know of who did the route ever seemed to be there. They were always like, "naw, I found the Beckey chimney earlier on the ridge" or something like that. :lol:

I'm grinning ear to ear because in my mind this was (perhaps unjustifiably, but still) a really private place for years.

Re: New stuff for the PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 4:12 pm
by ExcitableBoy
Very cool! Basically what we did was simu climb the fourth class ledge until forced to climb a delicate slab up and slighty right, finishing with a mantle onto a ledge. We belayed from here and the next moves were the crux which were kind of stemming the start of the open book then a big reach to a hortizontal crack then easier climbing. The moves felt harder than 5.8 but at the time I attributed it to being fatigued from the hard run the day before and keeping up with Aaron Zabriske. I would concur with your rating of 5.10b.